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-greyish schwinn frame comprised of some sort of high-tensile strength ferromagnetic material
-headset bearings made of spheres
-bottom bracket made of magic
-hand-grinded (hand-ground?) semi-horizontal dropouts
-fixed and freewheel gears at a ratio too high to climb loretta street
-~78% nitrogen, ~21% oxygen, ~1% argon, <1% trace element-filled tubes
-space-age dupont kevlar belted tires
-green fiks reflective(tm) stickers on alloy wheels
-green pedals with black straps
-green seat (aka green saddle for the snobs)
-green bottle cage
-green salsa grip tape
-black profile grip tape tape
-something nobody else has yet provided… a picture:
oh yes, also:
-vestigial stem-mounted sis shifters
-vestigial derailer hanger (not ‘derailleur’, ask sheldon)
Man, i need to step my bike game up. Reading this made me want….at least 4 more bikes. Haha.
anytime you want to try a big bike just let me know. happy to lend the bottlerocket out to you to go play on dr j.
I was so ready to come Friday, but the weather suuuucked. That’s basically my only free day from work. Next Rays trip or ride like that i am in though.
we meet every friday at thick to go ride in the woods somewhere (at night). anytime you want to go to ray’s (once we get the car fixed) i’m up for it. and in the meantime if you want to head over to highland or frick during the day on a friday just let me know.
“-bottom bracket made of magic”
hahaha that must be the magic metal dust from a neglected bearing?
Love the color play… fusion rims?
Why do snobs sit on saddles atop a seat-post… that has always confused me greatly. :p
@Val, and in the spirit of melange’s post: My general scheme is to use a wrench. Probably a 4mm and 5mm allen wrench, an automotive adjustable wrench, a screwdriver with magic multi-tool properties as well as other metal odds and ends. I’ll use some “marine” grease for the various rotating parts that is a lovely bluish-green color. I haven’t decided on a wheel set yet, but I suspect that they will be round and true (most likely DT Swiss 465’s with Record hubs). I might go with the Fulcrum Quattros (for looks and low price) though.
Aside from that, I’m doing a mixed Campagnolo 10speed build. So far: Chorus shifters and RD, Veloce crankset (ultra-torque with updated bearings from Wheels MFG), campy skeleton brakes, Chris King headset, Brooks saddle, Thomson Elite seat post.. still working out the other details.
Not sure why a new rig sounds original to you? Different bikes with different purposes… I don’t currently have a “play bike.” My winter commuter is a mostly stock 2005 Kona Dew Deluxe with disc brakes and bottom of the barrel components. The 520 is the work horse, but more for centuries than loaded touring. Most of its parts are going onto my 1977 Motobecane which I’m setting up as a Randonneur (most of its original parts are being hidden in the wall-boards for future archeological discovery or an Edgar Allen Poe novel).
I’ve got a 2011 Focus Maleta w/ 10spd XT drive train, Shimano Dynamo (with front/rear lights).
The Trek 520 is going to get some mini-v’s, Campagnolo 10spd brifters (“shimergo”) and FD and I’m going to throw a Shimano XT RD (9 spd) on the back. Sugino Alpina 800D crankset, Mavic A719 wheelset with a dynamo on the front. I just swapped out the original headset for the Cane Creek 40 not too long ago.
I’ll probably post more once my builds/re-builds are complete. I’m also in the market for a cross bike to ride on fire-roads and replace my recently sold Gary Fisher mtb as my primary mud-cycle. Cross bikes are better suited to the type of off-road riding that I do. Not sure if I’ll go aluminum (Cannondale CADXX or Focus AX2 are the current top choices, as I really like the feel of both) or steel (most likely a Waterford frame but an old Reynolds tubing Jamis is a possibility as is a Salsa Warbird).
I was going to say something but I have to check with my husband first to see what he wants me to say.
Man, I don’t know that much detail about any of my bikes. I feel like I’m not really paying attention.
I did just put some beautiful 40 year old polished aluminum Huret stem shifters on my 1969 Bottecchia, I am liking those a lot. When I was younger I wouldn’t have been caught dead with stem shifters with upright bars on a bike (musings regarding time, etc.).
…I’m bike boring. One bike, and it pretty much is as it came from Trek. I did replace the stem during my bike fitting at Top Gear. And I added speedplay light action pedals. That’s it.
@melange – your rebuild looks sharp!
@edmonds – post pics please!
melange, i suggest you bring that bike to a certain bike ride that is occurring on friday. i want to meet it.
@Drewbacca, I simply meant novel, as it pertains to building a new bike expressly for a better workout. Don’t read too deeply into it, I was sitting here drinking coffee and watching the baby when I wrote it.
I enjoy among other things Bicycle, hearing people discuss their bikes and different ways they enjoy biking. I started some of these threads to keep my mind on cycling, as we move into the gray months and riding becomes a little more challenging.
It’s very interesting to see the detail that some people know about their machines, no doubt. Reading some of those lists tells me I’m not so much a detail-oriented rider as some riders, by far.
Melange, that is a stellar photo. And yes, I have lots of Necrophilia jokes, and even some drinking songs and nursery rhymes, too…
pearmask, i was already planning on it i might even add some green electroluminescent wire
the bike i rode to work today has been more or less tailored to my specific purposes over the years. it started out as a giant ocr3 road bike, but all that’s left are the frame, fork/headset/stem, handlebars, and seat post. got a 10-speed 12-28 105 cassette, 28-42-52 triple crank, ultegra derailleurs, and bar end shifters (i do so love my bar end shifters). i built the wheels myself, 32-spoke cross 3, velocity deep v rims, tiagra hubs (i didn’t see the point in plopping down that much more for 105s), 28mm ribmo tires. kool stop salmon brake pads. low-end shimano spds. cross/inline/interrupter (whatever you want to call them) brake levers (these in addition to normal shimano brake levers). and a rear rack, because i apparently go anywhere without carrying at least 10 pounds of crap.
the lights i use are a knog boomer rear blinky and a busch and müller battery-powered ixon iq headlight. love them both, especially the headlight.
here it is, in all its glory:
i lied, of course. the brakes (not pads or levers, though), crank set, and saddle are all still original.
my other bike, which is better suited to the conditions, but is in no condition to be ridden, is significantly less tailored, mostly because it hasn’t been ridden as much and hasn’t need parts replaced as much yet.
nitto north road handlebars, cork grips, trigger shifters (this is the broken part, and i want bar ends, but it’s a pain to remove the grips, and the shifters can’t be removed without doing that), alex da-16 rims, deore hubs, 32mm ribmos, a new 28/38/48 crank set. sks silver fenders, brooks leather saddle, obviously a rack. this one i ride with toe clips, and usually with flip flops, because that’s how i roll (literally). everything else is approximately original (i did replace the rear derailleur and hanger after a crash, but with approximately the same thing).
an image, perhaps:
somewhere i also have a purple bike.
whoa. pbeaver, i have a blue bike, too. my second bike’s red, though.
“Reading some of those lists tells me I’m not so much a detail-oriented rider as some riders, by far.”
Details are just a distraction, what matters is that the tires hold air and the wheels go round when we pedal.
But then, I’m just an all around geek like that whether in reference to my car, my bicycles, or musical instruments… I could do more with what I already own, rather than building up another bicycle, but then, I find myself changing too much on a bicycle that already works perfectly well. But, yeah, my “inner bike happiness” is all about details. :p
I can get behind this thread. I have a bunch of bikes but the ones I like the most are my two Redline cross bikes. They are almost identical with the only difference being the one frame is scandium and the other is aluminum. I’ve assembled what I think is the best combo of cost versus function and reliability. I run them 1×10.
Dura-Ace 7800 right brake lever/ shifter
Dura-Ace 7800 172.5, 130 BCD cranks w/ 105 BB on one and Origin 8 ceramic BB on the other
Dura-Ace 7800 Rear Der
Shimano Left hand brake lever not sure the part number
N-Gear Jump stop inner chain keeper
BBG bash guard sized for 42 tooth outer guard
Avid Shorty 6 brakes w/ kool stop salmon pads
Time ATAC pedals
FSA 42 tooth chain ring
12-27 Cassette(I want 11-28 but am waiting for these to wear out)
5700 chain with KMC quick link
Ritchey Logic Curve Handle Bar
Thomson 100mm Stem
Thomson Elite no set back seat post
Specialized Romin Comp gel saddle 143 width
Custom tubular wheels – I laced them and had them finished up at a shop:
Kinlin TB-25 rims 24 hole front radial 28 hole rear 2 cross
Sapim X-Ray bladed spokes
DT 240 hubs
One set has Challenge Grifo’s the other set has Clement PDX’s
Yokozuna housing and cables w/ nosed ferrels and dust boots on the shift cables.
Cane Creek 110 headset
They are pretty sweet I just bought two November Hot Buns CX carbon frame sets to replace them though. I will probably hold onto the scandium frame set and keep that built up for riding in the woods/ winter. I mainly wanted to replace them because of the geometry, the redlines aren’t real aggressive for racing better for trail riding, and because lots of companies aren’t making canti frames anymore so I wanted to get a pair of frames while I could.
Awesome post …
Cburch, at least you aren’t as pissed at me any more
Road bike much the same as my cross bikes Cannondale CAAD 9
Dura-Ace 7800 shift/ brake levers
Dura-Ace 7800 172.5, 53×39 130 BCD cranks
Dura-Ace 7800 Rear Der
Dura-Ace 7800 Front Der Braze On
Dura-Ace 7800 Brakes F/R w/ Kool stop salmon pads
Thomson Elite no set back seatpost
Specialized Romin Elite Saddle 143 width
Ritchey Logic Curve Handle Bar 40cm
Thomson Elite stem 100mm
Speed Play Zero pedals w/ stainless spindle
Yokozuna Cables and Housing
BB30 bottom bracket w/ wheels adapter to run DA cranks
Stock Head set
Front Dura-Ace 7800 hub 32 hole 3 cross laced to Kinlin XR-300
Rear Dura-Ace 7850 hub 32 hole 3 cross
laced to kinlin XR-300
Generally run Vittoria Rubino 25’s except in the winter I throw on some blown out tires with tire liners
I race my tubulars I described above w/ Challenge Criterium 23’s
i wasnt pissed at you, just annoyed with the extreme amount of airing of personal issues with one particular person at one particular shop. i thought it was in very poor taste and not at all in-line with how you are in person. i was just a bit gruff about how i expressed my annoyance. something that IS right in-line with how i am in person. its not like you were talking shit on my wife or anything.
also the trail/freeride bike (intense carbine) has an error in the spec, its a Truvativ PF30 Blackbox BB, not a GXP external bearing bb.
and links to the bikes, since i don’t have decent photos handy:
bike 1 salsa el mariachi ss limited edition
bike 2 ns suburban
bike 3 Santa Cruz v10.4c
bike 4 transition bottlerocket (its discontinued and no longer on transition’s site)
bike 5 intense carbine (somebody screwed up at intense and their site is down)
Tetris, of all the components you listed, my favorite is the Time ATAC pedals. I love Times! I have always admired those Redlines, too but never owned one. I’m riding a Kelly that I picked up a few years ago, to take with me to Iraq. I’ve ridden that thing all over a good bit of Anbar Province. I had the good fortune to live in SoCal for a year, and rode it out there in a place called Caspar’s Wilderness
It’s got a steel frame that I love, too, even though I did replace the fork with a Surly model, due to a front end issue.
Val the Redlines have treated me well over the years. Time pedals are awesome great for clearing mud and not unclipping. The springs do wear out sort of fast though. I have a steel cross bike as well will write that up soon. Steel cross bikes are much better for doing everything. I have raced, toured, and commuted on my steel cross bike.
Tetris, I have never heard anyone voice that issue with the springs in the Times but I’ll definitely be paying more attention in case. I always thought (since I began using clip less pedals) that the ATACs were the most rugged pedal, and the one that, as you stated, was all about some mud clearance.
I think the Crank Bros pedals were so obviously copied from the Times, it’s not even funny.
So you toured on your cross bike? Coolio. I have a bike I put together for touring but I can see how a cross rig would work fine, too. My touring rig is actually my favorite bike, even though I have only done a couple of tours that lasted any time.
I toured for a month in The Smokies, several years ago. And when I lived in California I did a tour from San Francisco to Los Angeles over about two weeks. I had always wanted to tour the PCH and finally got to do it.
Me and my buddy did it up right, drove to China Town for some spicy noodles and cheap electronics, then headed out on the road! Where has some of your favorite tour riding been? I really want to do that ride from here to DC; one of the bartenders in town has done it a few times and had some great photos on a pad-thingy…
My only notable build:
I “designed” it for the MS150 last year with hills and some rough roads in mind.
As you can see, among other extremely practical features, it has a handmade prototype cable steering setup that no one has any faith in.
It has 322 links of chain and is also height adjustable from about 5’4″ to about 6′.
The wheel base was extended about 4.5″ to balance it out a bit, but it still wants to wheelie up steep hills. It has a Nexus 7-speed internally geared hub with a roller brake–it was the best cheap internal setup I could find. I absolutely love the roller brake and recommend them for any commuter (if you can find them).
Beautiful paint job, BTW.
I can understand the lack of faith in the cable steering. How did it work?
It’s actually been repainted since those pictures, though it is a very similar colour.
The cable steering has seen about 1000 miles one two sets of cables. It works great, but it does need to be looked after and maintained.
Most of the people who have/had little faith in it are the same people who criticize the weld quality of bicycles without ever having touched a torch.
@ Nick I saw you riding that during the MS150. Impressive work on the build! Very cool.
Anyone who can’t see how simple and effective that steering system is should refrain from flying in small airplanes.
Nick D, you far surpass me with any technical ability. Did you do the welds on this other-worldly contraption? I’m not a welder but have worked around it a lot, and I can’t even see the beads where the top rig is attached to the top tube on the lower machine.
I have to ask, have you been so unlucky as to wreck that thing, yet? It looks like a long way to fall…
I have dropped it a few times, once because I couldn’t clip out fast enough after some riders, riding four abreast stopped in the middle of a hill, once from goofing off, and during a group ride during an emergency stop.
It is quite a fall, but you are kind of in a mental state to prep for it and you have an extra moment to brace yourself.
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