BTW, Chris said that building a bike from the frame would cost “two or three times” as much? That seemed really high to me, assuming I spec similar quality parts and don’t go all XTR/Dura Ace/etc, but I’ve never looked at component prices.
The Vaya complete bike is $1500 while the frame + fork is $600. Do the components on that bike really go for $2400 individually? I knew it would cost more to do a build, but I’m not prepared to spend *that* much more.
Did you look at both of the Vaya models? They have a build on a black frame that is a little different from the orange… not exactly sure what you are looking for component wise but I find the black one much more to my liking.
“Do the components on that bike really go for $2400 individually? “ Probably not… but they may at full retail. The little things like a seatpost, saddle, handlebars, etc. can add up fast. Every time I’ve crunched numbers, I’ve saved by building myself (but not factoring in cost of labor which wouldn’t exist), and I came up with better parts to boot. I think you are only saving by buying a prebuilt if you sell what you don’t use, in which case I’m guessing that Thick would buy back the parts you don’t use in exchange for the upgrades? I think the only way to know for sure is to run the numbers and see what they would sell the bike for after buying new parts and subtracting the pull offs and see where that would leave you.
Completes are way cheaper than building from a frame. Especially if you aren’t speccing parts by what you can find deals on. Its all about economy of scale. Manufacturers buy components in huge bulk orders that drive the price far down below what the wholesale price of the individual components would be. Chris is actually costing himself money when he encourages you to do this instead of ordering the frame and all the parts through him since the margins on after market components are much higher than on complete frames.
FWIW I ran the specs on the LHT disc through google shopping and going by the average price of parts, with as few substitutions as possible, came up with $1143 before adding any applicable shipping/taxes. That doesn’t include the price of frame/fork.
wow, that sounds like a lot of work that i was too lazy to do – thanks!
ok, let’s even assume shipping and misc stuff takes that up another $250 to $1400. so building a vaya for those parts is $2000 vs the $1500 they charge for the complete bike. That’s more like what I was thinking – it might cost a few hundred more but not 2-3x… that i can probably handle, i get exactly what i want and the experience of building the bike up from the frame which i think would be cool.
2-3 times is if you buy everything at a retail bike shop for full retail prices. make sure that if you do go with a frame only you have them prep the frame for building (facing, reaming, chasing) and that you get yourself a headset press or have them press the cups in for you. otherwise you are opening yourself up to a REALLY bad day.
Just saw the Redline Metro series has turned to a commuting/cyclo/touring disc bike for 2012.
any luck, salty?
I was also just wondering if there are any road alternatives to the Avid BB’s?
I’ve been too busy to do anything else about it lately. I saw Chris got a Vaya in stock, I want to go take a look at it but I’m not sure it’s still there. It’s a 54 – probably too small for me but the geometry is weird so I wanted to at least get an idea.
I dunno, at this point I’m probably leaning towards just ordering a disc trucker and waiting until spring.
Shimano has “road” discs (R505), I don’t know much about them except people generally seem to prefer the BB7’s.
The Vaya is still there and gorgeous. After this mornings commute I am tempted to buy a disc trucker frame to replace mine.
who here bought a disc trucker? I saw you riding up Penn at SaltPGH this evening. Drool.
Can you even buy it yet? Pretty certain I am just going to replace my LHT with the disc trucker but I may go to a Soma Double Cross to change things up.
Yeah, last I heard Disc Trucker was coming out in Feb. I’ve heard of people putting disc forks on a CC or LHT, though…
I should go down to thick and order something, regardless.
hmmm…. maybe I was hallucinating but it was definitely steel with a crown fork and discs front and back. it was bikepgh blue with what looked like surly white letters. hmm.
look at what Eric in philly picked up from what sounds like a Big Brothers Big Sisters thrift store.
And I get excited when I find a quarter on the sidewalk.
I have a Raleigh Roper in for review right now that I’ve been tearing it up on. Killer bike. I’m not looking forward to sending it back someday.
I guess now is a good time to mention that I won one of these at the Rail-to-trail Sojourn over the summer. Too bad for me that I wrote a friend’s name on the raffle ticket ($20) and I’m the honest type. Of course, I still get to ride it.
Come to think of it, I’m not sure why I didn’t recommend this model earlier.
wow, that bike looks pretty cool and it certainly includes a lot of cool stuff – hydraulic discs, 3×10 MTB gearing, dynamo and front/rear lights, fenders, and a rack. I was a little surprised to see the price, ~$1350.
I don’t really want straight bars and there don’t appear to be any eyelets for a front rack, but otherwise… it’s definitely on the list – thanks!
the roper is high on my list of bikes to oggle, but I would probably want a tad larger cassette.
@ dmtroyer I would probably want a tad larger cassette.
Only for me, more than just a tad.
Question: What does increasing the size of your cassette do? Does it mean more speed?
And why steel frame over aluminum?
Steel = personal preference. Supposedly a better (comfort wise) ride, especially over long distances. It is also, supposedly more repairable. Everyone has an opinion and there is a lot of debate back and forth. For what it’s worth, most touring bikes are steel (light-weight steel, not the department store high-tensile crap). There are a few companies that make an aluminum touring bike, the most notable would be from Cannondale. I have no personal experience with steel bikes, save my 1974 Motobecane, which I’ve never taken on a long enough ride to appreciate a difference (not to mention it’s sized too big for me anyways), but I hope to purchase a steel bike in the near future and give it a shot.
I believe that the increased stiffness of aluminum is better for racing and climbing hills… a better power transfer, or so they say.
@Salty, nope, no front rack eyelets. That surprised me actually, the bike has the rear brake cable run through the tube, the wires for the lights are run through tubes, the kickstand is welded onto the frame… they practically thought of everything, but not a front rack? *shrugs* It is a good bang for the buck, but probably not a good start if you would replace the handlebars with drops; it would work great with trekking bars of some sort though. If you want any large pics of the Maleta, just let me know what you’d like to see.
Last Friday I saw an orange Vaya with stan’s notubes rims and Schwalbe Marathon Supremes at OTB. Does this belong to anybody here? I would love to ask some questions about it.
Continuing the saga… I went down to Thick today, the new date he has for the Disc Trucker is March 15, but he’s not yet able to order one.
So, I went and checked out the Vaya 2 and 3 that are both in stock. I do like the orange color of the 2 but I really want a triple… and I wish it had BB-7 instead of BB-5. Still, I was thinking of being impulsive, but I noticed a ding on the top tube of the 3… I know it doesn’t make that much difference but Chris said he’s going to try to get a new frame.
Anyways, I did look at the non-disc trucker and I was kind of surprised it doesn’t have the flared drops (Salsa Bell Lap) like the CC has. I might have to swap those out, I kinda dig the flares – although I’ve not ridden straight drops since I was a kid so maybe it’s not really much difference.
I am most likely going to order a Disc Trucker from Chris when they are available. If a frame with disc brakes also had a kickstand plate I would be in heaven.
Riv has a single-leg Pletscher for $13. Speaking from experience, as long as you are dealing with a normal commuting load (even a light touring load), a single leg is just dandy.
After having numerous bikes tip over with a single leg kick stand, this is the only kick stand I will ever use. Plus it can double duty as a work stand when you’re in a pinch. I love it.
Consider carefully how these might affect the ability to put your bike on a bus rack, if you ever need that. I have not investigated it, but something to think about.
That is a good point, and I had not considered it. I don’t rack my bike a whole lot but it is a really nice option to have especially after a night on the town… or if you snap your chain and don’t feel like trying to fix it in the 38 degree rain at night.
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