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The newbie bike gear thread

(Going to start this thread and keep putting questions here instead of making a new one for each question. Anyone is welcome to use this as a beginner gear questions thread)


I have had my bike since May and have not even looked into having a pump. The wheels seem slightly more squishy, so I am going to get one.


Is it just as simple as getting a pump? There are several cheap portable ones on e-bay. Will this be sufficient, or should I invest more money into this? Do I need anything else besides the pump?


And...how long do you usually go before checking/pumping?


Thanks!


italianblend
2011-09-04 16:37:59

I check the air pressure in my tires every time I ride, and probably add air once a week. Results may vary. I'm no expert, but I would classify a pump as necessary.


atleastmykidsloveme
2011-09-04 16:41:51

It's pretty standard to check your pressure every time that you ride. Innertubes have a tendency to loose pressure after only a few days (possibly less depending on the pressure).


As for pumps, just do an amazon search for bicycle pumps and then sort by customer reviews. You shouldn't need a large floor pump for your needs, just something that you can keep with you (attach to the frame). In your case, a road pump or a mountain bike pump will work since your tires are probably rated for something like 70psi max.


headloss
2011-09-04 17:00:44

Yes, you need a pump.


You'll also need a pressure gauge if your pump doesn't have one built in. Underinflating causes flats. Overinflating causes blowouts.


A floor pump is quicker and easier to use than a frame pump. But without a frame pump (or a CO2 cartridge) you won't be able to fix a flat on the road. Perhaps that's not a big deal if you only ride near bus routes or can call someone to pick you up. But if you get a flat on a trail (for instance), you may have to carry your bike a good long way to the nearest car-accessible spot. This is no fun.


A poorly designed frame pump makes it easy to damage the valve stem. Get one that connects with a hose.


So get a decent frame pump first (along with a spare tube, a patch kit, and a set of tire levers). Then consider getting a floor pump later if using the frame pump gets too annoying.


I find pumping weekly (and before long rides) works for me, but I don't ride every day. Pump at least often enough to keep the pressure within the range printed on your tires at all times.


steven
2011-09-04 17:26:26

you definitely need a pump. i would recommend, if you can afford it, get a good quality floor pump and a hand pump to take with you.


if you only have one pump, get a hand pump with a hose. like people said earlier, it's really easy to rip off the valve, even for someone who has a lot of experience.


i just picked up this frame pump and am really happy with it so far, from planet bike. it almost acts as a mini floor pump, although it does take awhile to get it to high pressure. also, it has no pressure guage.


http://ecom1.planetbike.com/1008.html

$25 msrp



frame pumps take longer to fill the tire, and they tend to not be as durable as a floor pump.


erok
2011-09-04 17:50:58

Most importantly, not having correct, or near-correct pressure in your tires will affect the handling of your bike and create a potentially dangerous situation. It can also lead to dents in your rim, which can be a costly repair.


Bonus: You have no idea how much easier these Pittsburgh hills can be with properly inflated tires. 30lbs of air pressure can make all the difference.


If you have a road bike, you probably have skinny tires with super thin tubes, which lose air naturally over time. I ride every day on 25mm tires at 120psi, and if I skip pumping for two days, I'm usually down around 80psi.


robjdlc
2011-09-04 18:26:39

I am a beginner too, but everyone (people on this board, Amazon reviewers, and a guy at Iron City Bikes who said he wouldn't let me buy any other portable pump) said that the Topeak Road Morph G is the one to get, so I'm just passing along the advice that I got.


Link: http://amzn.com/B000FI6YOS


It is apparently the only portable one that has a hose and a gauge that can also be used like a floor pump so that you can get to sufficiently high PSIs without struggling too much. And it's ~$28, which seems reasonable.


2011-09-04 18:30:41

So, if I would buy that last one, I wouldn't need to buy anything else right?


italianblend
2011-09-04 20:52:21

"So, if I would buy that last one, I wouldn't need to buy anything else right?"


Not in the short term. I have the Topeak Mountain Morph and it has been good to me for three years of regular use now. I'll probably get the Road Morph mentioned above when it's time to purchase a new pump (for the sake of having a pressure gage). That's the only pump I've needed... while a floor pump would be nice, I have found it unnecessary.


Do your tires use a Presta or Schrader valve? The Topeak pump can be used with either, but you may need to have someone show you how to adjust it to fit the Schrader valve.


headloss
2011-09-04 21:19:31

I've got a Topeak Road Morph G. It works well once you learn how to use it. One of the reviews on Amazon explains the details.


Compared to a floor pump, it takes longer to attach (you have to screw it in place, then flip a lever, while a floor pump just requires pushing the connector in place and flipping the lever). It takes more strokes, too, and each one is more difficult because the handle's much closer to the ground, and smaller.


I wouldn't be very happy with just a frame pump, but YMMV. Why not get a frame pump (which you need for flats in any case) and after you have some experience using it, go into a bike shop and ask to try out one of their floor pumps?


steven
2011-09-04 21:43:19

I have a handheld pump, and it's great on the go, but I really, really, really need to get a floor pump. much less work to get air in, and it doesn't hurt my arms.


rubberfactory
2011-09-04 22:04:31

the road morph is a really great pump. i didn't realize you can get it for so cheap as i've only seem them around for above $40.


erok
2011-09-04 22:24:25

Good points above. A frame pump can be a workout in of itself. If you find yourself in poor physical shape, a good floor pump will make life much easier. Of course, if you really want to make life simple, there is no reason not to buy one of those small compressors that plug into a cigarette lighter of your car...


headloss
2011-09-04 22:27:27

While looking at the pumps on amazon, I found an alien bike light. =)


italianblend
2011-09-04 22:54:02

The car compressors are pretty terrible once you start using a decent floor pump.


Hell, my Lezyne has even inflated 4 car tires from 20psi to 42psi (225/40/18 on my 2011 VW GTI). Well worth it. I am gonna get one to tuck in the car and one to leave at work.


orionz06
2011-09-05 03:48:00

Wow, if you've not inflated your tires since May and haven't had a pinch flat that is pretty impressive. Although, reading the other replies I might have to start a "how often do you pump" thread. I probably do it once a month but I should do it more because I'm probably down to 50psi or less (starting from 85) after a month. I have no excuse aside from absentmindness, there is a pump sitting beside where I park my bike and another one at my office.


I always carry a tube and a patch kit (and a tire boot, though you can improvise one from a dollar bill in a pinch). The patch kit is "plan b", it's much nicer to patch in the comfort of home unless you absolutely have to do it by the road. So, you'll also want to carry a set of tire levers to get the tire off - they're cheap and don't take up much room.


salty
2011-09-05 04:17:45

another wow at the frequency with which people refill tubes! i put in a new tube a few weeks ago, and it was losing about 20 psi per day, and i've just been too lazy to change it to something else. normally, i go probably two weeks between refills, and in that time, my tires go from 120 to about 90 or so.


echoing what everyone else has said, you can get a decent frame pump that pretty much does it all for you, and not need another pump. personally, i find the ease and quickness of a floor pump absolutely indispensable. it turns a 5 minute sweaty job into a two minutes and go easy thing. for me (lazy!) it can be the difference between keeping my tires properly inflated and riding around ready to get a pinch flat at a moment's notice.


hiddenvariable
2011-09-05 06:28:31

I last had air put in my tubes when I got my new wheel back in july, and It's only just now starting to feel low. But not pinch-flat low. I've gotta scrounge up some quarters to get air at the gas station (I dislike using my handheld when I don't have to)


rubberfactory
2011-09-05 14:37:50

RubberyFactory - you know you can roll into any local bike shop and use a pump for free, right? At least I know you can at Thick, Kraynicks, probably Love Bikes, Iron City...


robjdlc
2011-09-05 14:43:16

yeah, but I usually don't make it near one before I'll hit a gas station. which is a bad excuse, I know.


rubberfactory
2011-09-05 14:57:58

You can also use the pumps at the bike rental stations on the jail trail and where they rent the Kayaks.


frisbee
2011-09-05 15:26:18

Seriously, get a floor pump now.


The other option is to wait a few years, pumping up your tires with a pump meant to be a portable on the road solution. Then someday in the future you will buy a floor pump and wonder what the hell you were doing fumbling around with a hand pump at home all that time.


bradq
2011-09-05 15:41:15

Another shout out to Sheetz! Which has FREE air! ;) Too bad they aren't really in the city :(


headloss
2011-09-05 16:06:44

Okay, so, I have my own newbie gear question to throw out there:


Are there any particular handlebar bags that people would recommend (under $50)? I just need something with some pockets to keep my phone and other things accessible. (I love my panniers, but they are black holes and keep hiding things like my keys when I really need them.) Not necessarily anything huge, but maybe big enough that my rain jacket could roll up inside for weeks like this lovely one that we have forecasted.


I would especially like one with something like one of those clear map pockets that could safely hold my phone while also letting me see the screen. (New to Pittsburgh + no sense of direction = constant need for Google Maps on iPhone.) I've seen plenty with pockets like that, but a lot of them look like they might not hold a phone securely.


It would be a plus if it was waterproof-ish, and it would be even better if it was large enough and structured enough that I could put my DSLR + a small lens in it once in a while.


Topeak and Avenir both have bags on Amazon that look decent, but I'm wondering if anyone recommends anything in particular - I haven't seen anything irresistibly perfect yet.


2011-09-05 20:17:13

Side note:

Instead of buying a floor pump, I realized that the emergency footpump that had been laying unused in my car for years worked just fine on my Schraeder-valve tires. Might not be as good for getting to higher PSIs, but it works fine to get my tires to 80 or 85 - and they are ultra-cheap (as in "can be had for <$10" - but for good reason, it seems, as Amazon reviews indicate that they are not so good at their job of inflating huge car tires). Or free, if you're like me and just have forgotten junk laying around. (This is not to say that buying a legit floor pump is a bad idea - I clearly have no real knowledge about these things - but if you want the absolute cheapest thing you can get for home use, that might be your best bet.)


2011-09-05 20:26:59

I love this tread, I think its a great idea especially for us who have limited technical or repair knowledge. I want to add a question to the table about tires. its been raining a lot and was wondering if rain tires exist or wet weather tires.


marvelousm3
2011-09-05 20:37:51

@pearmask handlebar bags can be expensive. Especially ones that have well designed mounts, clear map pockets for your phone and are waterproof. Topeak and Avenir are in the right direction, look towards Ortlieb, Arkel, or Jandd if you're willing to make a lifetime investment.


@mr marv any bike tire with tread should be superior to those without in the rain.


dmtroyer
2011-09-05 21:37:31

Hmmm? Fanny pack? haha...


humblesage
2011-09-05 21:43:29

Fanny Pack hahahaha


marvelousm3
2011-09-05 22:25:52

What separates a good fanny pack from the bad ones? Any to avoid? Any front runners to look at?


orionz06
2011-09-05 22:45:39

a veritable wealth of information on the subject is available here


2011-09-06 00:02:14

@dmtroyer: I do know I'm not going to get exactly what I want without spending a little more. Currently, on my luxurious graduate student stipend, "lifetime investments" are not really an option, so it's just a matter of whether there's something cheaper that will at least last until I can get something better, or whether I should just hold off on spending any money until I can drop $100 or so on something legit (I think one of the Jandd ones is in my future someday).


As an aside: clearly function comes before form in this situation, but am I the only one who thinks 95% of handlebar bags are the equivalent of fanny packs for bikes, in terms of appearance? Even the expensive ones, from companies that otherwise make reasonably stylish panniers and stuff, are strangely dorky-looking to me. It's not going to keep me from buying what I need, but I don't want my bike's self-esteem to be permanently damaged when I force it to wear one, haha.


And that reminds me... I have a waist pack that I used to use for hiking (okay, fine, a glorified fanny pack that just happens to be square and rugged looking). Maybe I can find a way to ziptie that to my handlebars for now. That might be the new plan. I like not spending money. And I really like zipties.


2011-09-06 00:20:32

@pearmask: Why not just, you know, wear the fannypack instead of jury-rigging something to the handlebars? :-)


jkp1187
2011-09-06 00:32:27

@ pearmask I promise if you wear your "rugged" fanny pack none of use will make fun :)


marvelousm3
2011-09-06 01:09:44

You know I never thought of a handle bar bag, but thinking about my handlebars has me convinced that i coulndnt fit one. cycling computer, light, bell gear shifters, brakes, bar ends.. im lucky I have room for hands, My handle bars have become for dashboard and less bike.


I feel ashamed


dbacklover
2011-09-06 01:16:41

I actually tend to use that thing messenger-bag style when hiking, so I sort of forgot that was really an option. (I guess the waist thing is a logical design in theory, but having a bag around my waist just felt awkward to me, especially when it had any noticeable weight in it - it sort of felt like it might slide around and fall off.) But I now have screwed-up shoulders and try not to carry things on them at all when I can avoid it, and this ziptie-to-bike plan is probably more work than necessary, so maybe it's time to embrace the... ahem... "waist pack." So if you ever see a girl riding around looking extra wobbly and awkward and then find yourself becoming strangely jealous of her über-cool, bright red, square fanny pack... that's me. Hah.


To return to more legitimate gear questions, I'm curious about tires and rain too. (And I will surely be back within the next few months asking for information about good snow tires, but that's an issue for another day...)


2011-09-06 02:17:27

Well... I don't think it matters much how you use the bag. Since you actually have a "waist pack" use it.


That said, it takes time to figure out how you want to carry your gear. I rode BMX forever, so when I needed to take stuff with me it was a backpack. When I needed to carry more stuff it was a bigger back pack. Then I got my road-style, fixie, commuter thing last month or so and couldn't wait to slap a rack and panniers on it. Rode it like that for a while, and now, I'm back to the backpack and plan to just add a locking trunk to the rack. I hate panniers. The extra wind resistance and more weight on the back wheel was too annoying for my riding style and speed.


Definitely try all the options you have at your disposal before spending tons of money on something that may not work out for you. I have one policy when it comes to purchases now: Buy once, cry once. :)


humblesage
2011-09-06 03:09:23

If you need to carry a lot of odd heavy stuff, you might consider a front basket, toss your stuff in and go. Very useful. Love front baskets. Handlebar bags have a kind of touring euro geekiness that has a charm, but a lot of drawbacks for simple utility; interfere with your hands, quirky to put on/take off, etc.

But for pure utility and economy, nothing can touch the milk crate zip tied to the rack. I think they also have a kind of thief repellent effect.

For map pockets, waterproof cell phone bags, change of clothes, just use ziplock bags, the heavy storage type ones, everything from sandwich size ones to gallon ones that will hold a laptop or shirts. Great.


edmonds59
2011-09-06 04:01:41

Milk crates rock! Getting (a real) one can be tricky. :) There are rack baskets too that are nice and cheap. I think my ideal setup would be locking trunk of some sort on the rack with two folding rack baskets and a basket up front. The Topeak front baskets (and similar) appeal to me for the ability to be easily removed to take into shops or home or school or whatever. A Cetma rack would be primo though. ;)


humblesage
2011-09-06 05:03:50

The topeak stuff is pretty cool but since I got panniers I almost never use that bag anymore. BTW, pretty sure I saw a locking hard plastic trunk at Biketek once.


Fwiw, I'd have to think the wind resistance of rear panniers is pretty small, they're mostly behind your legs. A trunk bag will put the same weight on the back wheel in a worse position - lower is better for stability.


I used to use a pack all the time, usually filled with books. I do not miss that weight on my back one bit.


salty
2011-09-06 05:26:26

That's what I'm saying really. We're all going to have different ways we like to carry gear. I don't like having the weight on my bike (and I do notice the wind resistance in my case). I just don't like the way the bike handles. I love the way a bike handles with the weight on my back though. And, it really doesn't bother me (right now, things change with time). I like the trunk idea for leaving my repair kit and rain gear on the bike along with the baskets for trips to the store, etc. Stuff I can leave on the bike all the time that's there just in case I need it. But backpacks are my thing. Maybe I'm just a different breed of people. Plus, the bag's always with me. Which is a peace of mind factor I just like.


humblesage
2011-09-06 06:27:11

I have a fanny pack and I hate it, fashion wise. It's not all that waterproof & it does twist around and loosen. I keep keys, phone and pepper spray in it. It does have the advantage of not being attached to the bike. I'm still looking for the perfect, easy-to-remove handlebar bag, except I am out of handlebar real estate.


RE things getting lost in the depths of big panniers: When I pack for work, I use colorful eagle creek packing cubes I already had for my suitcase travel.


RE baskets: heavy duty freezer ziplock bags are great and reusable. Kayaking dry sacks are nice for clothes, but more expensive.


If you are short like me, I don't recommend the Topeak rear basket unless you have enough saddle clearance.


RE: tires for rain: I really like the Vittoria Randonneur tires several people have recommended on these forums. They are really hard to get on, but one you have 'em, good grip & nary a flat!


pseudacris
2011-09-06 07:10:23

In my short experience, I see both sides of this back vs. rack thing.

I was debating between panniers and messengers/backpacks at first. Unfortunately, since I have frustrating shoulder problems that have been steadily getting worse, I quickly realized that I would not be able to carry all that stuff on my back for my whole commute unless I just really wanted to have lots of fun muscle-spasm-y pain 24/7. So that pretty much decided it in favor of panniers no matter what other factors were involved. Panniers do have other things going for them in that competition, too: for example, not having a bag holding in heat on my back means I show up to class/work a little less sweaty.

I sometimes wish my stupid shoulders would let me carry things in a bag, though. Without all that weight on the rear rack, my bike definitely feels more maneuverable (and is also easier to roll while walking and easier to carry up the stairs into my apartment). And it takes a little longer to jump off my bike and go inside anywhere when I have to take the panniers off the rack, dig locks out of them, get their shoulder straps sorted out, blahblahblah... especially because they have lots of buckles and drawstrings to undo before I can get to my stuff, and then, because they are both of the mostly-one-big-compartment variety, I end up having to do quite a bit of digging just to find my locks/keys/etc. within the abyss. On the rare occasions when I've been carrying a small enough amount of stuff to just put it all in a messenger bag, stopping and locking up does feel a lot simpler.


Those issues with the style of my panniers, incidentally, are the reasons I was looking at handlebar bags. While the one-big-compartment style of these panniers (Ortlieb Bike-Packer Classics) are great in terms of being stuffed full of large things (books, groceries, etc.), they are a black hole for small things like keys. And while the double-drawstring-plus-buckled-top-lid design is means no stuff can fall out and no water can get in, that also means it takes a stupidly long time to open them if I just need to grab one thing. I'd have a closer-to-ideal system if I had just gotten a more "urban"/commuter-oriented pannier for one side, something that would be easier to get things in and out of, easier to organize things in, easier to carry like a "normal" bag during the day, etc... I didn't think about it as much as I should have before buying them, but I guess it could have turned out worse.


I agree about trunks, humblesage - it feels silly carrying things like spare tubes in the bags that I take to class with me, and it would make so much more sense to be able to lock that kind of thing up with the bike. I haven't seen many of them, but they do seem to exist.


As for baskets / milk crates, my rear rack space is already spoken for since I almost always use my panniers, and with the amount of weight I have to carry, it's probably good for me to keep it low instead of on top of the rack anyway. I might think about a front basket, though. I guess I was leaning towards handlebar bags to keep things enclosed from rain and stuff, but a front basket and some Ziploc bags would be fine - and simple. And maybe I could set one up in a permanent-ish way so that I could just leave it on my bike all the time without worrying about it getting stolen. That would be nice.


There seem to be good reasons for all of these different ways of carrying stuff. For the sake of other new bike owners who might read this stuff, this just makes me want to emphasize what humblesage said, even though it's sort of too late for me. Don't be like me and buy expensive panniers (or whatevers) the day you buy your bike, even if you are certain you want panniers (or whatevers) - wait until you're pretty sure exactly what you need and then try to spend money once. There are much cooler things to spend all your money on than multiple kinds of stuff whose only purpose is to hold other stuff. Hah.


2011-09-06 08:09:43

Pseudacris, I might have to check out those packing cubes... that's a good idea.


2011-09-06 08:16:36

Pumps: +1 to having one good floor pump that doesn't move (i.e. not likely to be tossed in the back of the car). If you plan to do a lot of road riding, plan to carry one.


Bags: I get 40% of my needs met with a $6 bag I picked up from Scholl's Bike Shop in West View. This usually carries tools, pump, and a small ziploc with a Gu or Clif bar. Another 40% of needs are met with a rear rack, plastic bags, and a bunch of bungee cords. Just make sure the cords stay put when not in use. A loose bungee in the spokes can lead to catastrophe. Another 10% of needs are met by putting papers in a large enough ziploc and stuffing it in my shirt. So, 40+40+10=90, and yeah, I don't have a solution for that other 10%, but so far I'm only out $6 (plus rack if not already on the bike).


Tires in rain: Anything works. Get fenders.

Tires in snow: See previous sentence, and trust your butt and body to tell you when you lose traction. Tires only gain you a bit, the bigger issue being knowing when not to even bother trying. Same applies to using a car in said snow.


stuinmccandless
2011-09-06 11:58:22

Pear - i have the bike packer plus, one nice thing about the plus is it has a pocket outside where I put small items. But, you can buy an add-on pocket for about $25. I also don't bother with the drawstring unless it's raining hard, so it's pretty quick to get in and out. Mine also has a pocket inside (actually 2), do the classics have that? I keep my lock and bungees in the back pocket and sometimes put small things in the zipper pocket. So, my review of them is completely opposite - I think they're great, and I was kind of ani-pannier before I bought them.


salty
2011-09-06 14:09:50

If you get a chance to stop by Performance Bikes in East Liberty, check out the triangular frame packs that they carry. They take up almost no space on the bike (attach to the underside of the top tube on most bikes) and carry just enough. Keys, a small frame pump, cell phine, wallet. Just be sure to take your valuables with you when you park your bike. Won't fit a dslr, but they only cost a few bucks. I think mine was less than $10, but it might have been on special.


swalfoort
2011-09-06 14:52:08

There has been a discussion previously (unfortunately when someones bike got jacked) about keeping your most essential things, wallet, cell phone, keys, in a very small waterproof pouch or something on your person and not on the bike, in such an event. Should be small enough not to cause musculoskeletal issues.

Someone, some crafty person, could make something not dorky out of something cool and recycled, out of old banner signs or something, eh?


edmonds59
2011-09-06 15:01:02

@salty: The "Classic" ones do have the pockets inside, although they can be hard to access when the bag is full of stuff. But don't get me wrong, I still think they're really great. If I did it over again, I would probably still get something like what I already have for one side, but then I would just get something more like Ortlieb's various backpack/messenger style panniers for the other side to be able to organize some of my stuff a little better, which is ultimately just a nitpicky preference thing on my part.


That makes a lot of sense to carry the most important stuff on your person. I've thought about that before and just haven't really been doing it, but I probably should. Hopefully there's not too much risk of the bike/panniers getting stolen right out from under me, but I guess you never really know.


And I pass by that Performance Bikes store all the time; maybe I will go look at those frame packs sometime. Cheap is good.


2011-09-06 21:12:24

wow, nice thread. :D


on pumps - I have wussy delicate presta valves (worst. design. ever.), and a hand pump, and have broken the valve stem off just putting the pump on the valve. I then took the wheel and pump back to the shop and said "ok, now teach me not to be as much of an idiot please?" and they showed me where I went wrong.


In the future, I'd avoid presta valves just as a rule, but I like my belongings to be... less delicate. I'll get a floor pump to be less likely for a repeat valve bust, but if you destroy stuff like me, and have presta valves, maybe take that into consideration when buying a pump of any kind. And watching someone else (and having them watch and correct me) use it really helped. Yes, it may be idiot proof and straightforward, but at the trail head on a Sunday is not the time to find out one's personal idiocy level exceeds the simplicity of the pump design (ahem). I haven't figured out how to field patch a valve, and after busting one my inclination to replace the tube with a brandy new one (to then bust upon pump attachment) was zero (and ok, I couldn't find my spare tubes).


It's not just what you use, but how you use it.


ejwme
2011-09-07 19:21:58

If you really hate those valves that much, and continue to have breakage problems, a shop should easily be able to open out the valve hole to take schraders on your existing rims. I personally like presta valves and think they are worth attempting to get used to, but as I say, if you keep breaking them, there's that.


edmonds59
2011-09-07 19:42:26

edmonds - yeah, I'm gonna give the prestas another go (I try to consider myself adaptable, so I ought to prove it by learning, right?), but will probably do that if it happens again.


ejwme
2011-09-07 19:50:33

Trying to patch a valve stem is an exercise in futility most of the time. Prestas usually win over Schraders in my opinion just because it's easier to get air in. The only thing I like about Schraders is using pretty much any air compressor I find to get air in. A set of Schrader adapters has pretty much made that argument invalid too though.


humblesage
2011-09-07 21:01:03

@dmtroyer: @mr marv any bike tire with tread should be superior to those without in the rain.


in fact, this is not true. tread will only reduce traction in rainy situations.


traction on tires can reduce the risk of hydroplaning, but since it is so incredibly difficult to hydroplane on a bicycle, this is never a concern.


hiddenvariable
2011-09-07 21:33:39

A floor pump is definitely a wise investment. I'm glad to have the mini pump with me on longer rides, but I would just go nuts trying to get it to work on a daily basis, screwing around with the short hose and probably knocking my bike over a number of times in the process. Definitely a good idea.


ieverhart
2011-09-07 21:40:48

@ Hidden Variable so would you say slicks would be best or are all tires about the same in the rain.


marvelousm3
2011-09-07 23:21:34

I had zero problems breaking presta valves until they started making them like 5 feet long. But, it's definitely a better design overall.


salty
2011-09-08 01:07:40

@Hiddenvariable please elaborate.


dmtroyer
2011-09-08 12:42:31

@dmtroyer: see Jobst Brandt for one take on the subject.


Although I'm too lazy to find the link, I've also seen a quote from Schwalbe (makers of quite a few bicycle tires) wherein they talk about adding fine lines to the tread of their slick tires merely to increase the comfort level of purchasers...they had no measurable impact on handling in wet conditions.


reddan
2011-09-08 14:11:59

Interesting read, but I'm still skeptical, especially when the premise of his argument is that motorcycle and aircraft tires are smooth tread.


Bridgestone Motorcycle Racing Wet Tires



All the aircraft tires I found had grooves/channels as well.


Anywho, back to work.


dmtroyer
2011-09-08 14:29:16

I've had a number of pumps, floor and otherwise, there the part that actually fastens to the valve was a frustrating P.I.A.


I'd suggest trying any pump out in the store before taking it home.


mick
2011-09-08 14:39:40

I tend to believe the argument that tread ala hybrid tires is just for looks and marketing. My bike came with tires that had a cool looking tread with lots of crosshatching. They seemed only to serve as master glass picker uppers and I was getting flats constantly. They've been replaced and I can't tell anything different except for the lack of flats.


tabby
2011-09-08 14:55:01

After a few hours googling the subject it seem like HiddenVariables is correct tread on bicycle tires do not help with hydroplaning. I really should be paying attention to class right now.


marvelousm3
2011-09-08 15:26:37

I've always run slicks. Rain, the far greater problem is splash, not traction. Snow, the far greater problem is traction of any kind and no tread is going to help much.


In all cases, I worry much more about cornering and running into gravel. The last turn before my house involves a sharp turn from a 6% downhill to a 12% uphill (StreetView, where that car is), and the faster I can make that turn, the less I have to climb. That's all dependent upon the absence of gravel and how much confidence I have in my cornering tread.


stuinmccandless
2011-09-08 15:34:05

"Today, slicks are used in all weather by most street motorcycles." Mr. Brandt is just entirely incorrect on that one. Thus the motorcyle rain racing tires DM found.

Bicycle tires don't operate at nearly the speeds required to induce hydroplaning. It is a wedge of water that builds up in front of the tire that lifts the tire off the surface. The speed at which that occurs is based on the psi in the tire, the size of the contact patch, and the speed of forward motion.

Below hydroplaning speeds, tire grip is based directly on friction, which is based on the contact patch of the tire to the surface. If grooves are cut into the tire surface (tread), it reduces the contact patch area, thus reducing grip. Demonstrated by the fact that MC dry racing tires are slicks. Though motorcycles are much heavier than a bicycle and rider, the tires run only at around 30 psi, resulting in a large contact patch that gives a lot of grip in the dry, but hydroplanes much more easily.


edmonds59
2011-09-08 16:02:21

I can see it now- riding along, oh-oh need to switch my tires! It's starting to rain!


30 minutes later- sun's out, time to switch back!


If the road is wet and you worry about traction, slow down a bit (especially on sharp corners) until you figure out what works with your tires.

How many people on here have hydroplaned in a car? I did twice in 44 years of driving. On my bike? Never.


helen-s
2011-09-08 17:02:20

just make sure you don't use Cruise Control on your bike in the rain - when the tires finally gain traction they end up spinning out of control....


heh heh. I'm surprised I haven't seen a snope-tastic forward from my grandmother about that yet.


ejwme
2011-09-08 17:15:51

One of the very awesome things about the separate front/rear braking systems on bikes is that you can effectively change braking on the fly without changing a single mechanical part. Test the available traction with the back brake and no front, if you know it's slippy (sic), use a lot of back and little front, dry and nice use lots of front. Just a change in software.


edmonds59
2011-09-08 17:32:28

basically, what edmonds said regarding traction (in fact, it's much more complicated than that, but that's a good enough approximation).


if you want tires that do better on wet roads, go with a "stickier" tire, one that has a higher coefficient of friction.


hiddenvariable
2011-09-08 18:52:54

ok, i should have known i wasn't going to be able to let this sit.


specifically, where edmonds errs is to say that friction is dependent on the contact patch. though it may be incredibly counterintuitive, this is not true. the force of friction is independent of contact area, for a given normal force. so if, for example, you turned a brick on its end, it would still produce the same force of friction as on its broadest size.


in fact, tires with very minimal tread have probably about the same amount of traction as slick tires. they may have significantly higher rolling resistance, though.


tires with crazy tread, like knobbies, have less traction in a turn because the irregular tire surface can "walk" (to use jobst brandt's term) along the road surface, which may result in the tire briefly losing contact with the road. the sudden loss of traction can be enough to cause a slip.


like mr. brandt said, tread patterns have no positive effect of traction when they can't bite into the road surface. in cars, they are used to prevent hydroplaning, which is possible due to the car's high speed and the broad width of the tires. however, on a bicycle with, say, 25mm round cross-section tires, you'd have to travel in excess of 100 mph to hydroplane. thus treads also provide no benefit to hydroplane prevention, since you basically can't cause a bicycle to do it.


hiddenvariable
2011-09-08 19:09:17

Sooo what is an example of a stickier tire


marvelousm3
2011-09-08 19:20:16

@HiddenVariable ...on a bicycle with, say, 25mm round cross-section tires, you'd have to travel in excess of 100 mph to hydroplane.


I just hate when that happens.


mick
2011-09-08 19:39:53

Mr. Marvelous - a softer rubber (less dense) will be stickier, but less durable. Harder rubbers (more dense) will be more durable but less sticky. I realize you probably knew that and it didn't help, but if you're looking at tires and they mention density of rubber, that could help you decide.


Mostly what I get from above is that the rider matters more than the tire - you can have the best tires for rain an someone like me in the saddle and it won't matter, or the worst tires for rain and an Ace in the saddle and they'll manage (perhaps with more grumbling) just fine.


I'm guessing that tires to effectively avoid flats is an easier thing to find than tires "more effective than average" for rain use?


ejwme
2011-09-08 20:07:05

Here's a better view of my corner. Come down Perrymont (on the left) at 20 or better (30+ is attained easily), and make the hard left onto Eleanor. Assuming no gravel or water is on the street, and oncoming traffic is clear, and stomach butterflies are absent, this is the turn that really tests a tire's road stickiness.


stuinmccandless
2011-09-08 20:21:37

@ ejwme That was the best explanation I have gotten yet, you explained it so well even a caveman could understand.... thanks


marvelousm3
2011-09-08 20:43:06

Mr. Marv, the only tires I would stay away from would be anything advertised with a "dual-compound" construction. A while back, some companies tried to increase wear by having a harder band of rubber molded into the center of the tread, with softer toward the shoulders. Great idea, as long as your constantly going straight, with no rain. Those hard center bands were pretty bad in the rain. If I go back to the tires you linked, I see that some of those claim to have a harder center rubber, so maybe they've worked that out.

Any of those brand manufacturers you linked to a while back, Vittoria,Continental,Michelin, etc have very good rubber compounds that are optimal for most conditions.


edmonds59
2011-09-08 20:51:54

^ I think my Bontrager Race Lite Hard case tires have a dual-compound. :( I haven't had a fat ever with them. But they can be slippery when wet.


marvelousm3
2011-09-08 20:58:29

(note, the same thing works for shoes, it's why super skooshy flip flops and runners don't last very long, but super hard soled shoes last forever - that and nobody walks very far in super hard soled shoes)


ejwme
2011-09-08 21:01:38

"@ ejwme That was the best explanation I have gotten yet, you explained it so well even a caveman could understand.... thanks"


So... low rolling resistance?



headloss
2011-09-09 01:54:54

This may have been mentioned, but any tread added to a slick (making it a semi-slick tire) is usually for comfort. On the road, I tend use a semi-slick up front. And I run it with much lower pressure than in the rear. This helps the tire "float" a little better over terrain and eases the shock on upper body.


Harder (high durometer) rubbers tend to roll faster, but corner like crap. So, they aren't used ONLY to increase tire life, some people just like to go faster. I used really high durometer (between 60 and 75) slicks on dirt and tarmac BMX tracks on the rear of my race and stunt bikes for years. This tradition has carried over well to the street and is pretty common.


On slick roads though, nothing is more important than cornering traction in my opinion. From what I've noticed semi-slicks are better when wet, but only cause they are stickier (which was mentioned). Knobbies + water is a pretty bad decision unless mud is part of the equation. And dual-compounds do work, but not for everyone.


For me what really works is just to play with tire pressures. I think a lot of people run too high pressures just because the tire said so.


humblesage
2011-09-09 03:30:57

Hi all, what kind of gloves do you use in cold weather while commuting? Do normal gloves work with braking?


italianblend
2011-09-19 10:08:11

Do you tend to be cold-handed, or do you just need some light warmth?


edmonds59
2011-09-19 11:13:19

Gloves: Sometimes I wear those thin leather driving gloves. My actual "biking gloves" are a pair of Mechanix brand gloves that I picked up on sale for about $7, that despite being designed as working gloves, actually work quite well for riding and have the same exact characteristics as dedicated cycling gloves that cost 3x as much. Just watch for a good deal on something with a padded palm at your local hardware store. For colder weather, keep a pair of latex/nitrile gloves with you and wear them underneath. On a similar note, keep some plastic grocery bags around to wrap around you feet on a cold day, especially if you are wearing those athletic shoes that are designed to allow your foot to breath.


headloss
2011-09-19 12:40:48

We had this thread a couple seasons back. Good to review.


stuinmccandless
2011-09-19 13:06:19

@headloss


I mentioned in another thread the awesomeness of Mechanix gloves. I wear them for mt biking, housework, shooting, working on cars, mowing the grass, and anything else that might beat up my hands. I buy 2-3 pairs at a time. If my hands didn't get numb on my road bike I would wear them then too.


orionz06
2011-09-19 13:30:54

I've discovered the joy of breadbags for the feet. While cheap and effective, they result in a sweaty mess for feet, so I'm debating getting neoprene socks or some such actual "technical" socks. Probably never will, though. Oh, and steel toed boots are wonderful for stopping the wind on the toesies, but suck for trying to get anywhere fast (or just not-exhausted). I just happen to have a pair for work.


Gloves when it's coldest I use ice-climbing gloves (padded fingers for severe wind-proofedness). I've got a thinner pair of "biking gloves" for when it's just not hot, but I find my fingers get numb on the first hill with those, and I hate that.


I think I will scope out these Mechanix gloves you speak of orionz, they sound like they might do very nicely.


Italianblend: I'd pick out a brisk weekend, and gather together all the pairs of gloves you have in your house (including rubber, cleaning, gardening, etc). Find a nice long steep hill, and do laps to test them out in combinations. At least that's what I'd do. It's not what I did my first winter, because I'm crap at planning ahead. But if I were organized, I would. The perfect gloves or glove combos may be sitting in your garage, already purchased and waiting for you. And never forget how awesome Goodwill and the like are, they also have all sorts of winter gear (though usually the best selection is in May, not September).


ejwme
2011-09-19 15:24:07

I love my neoprene toe covers- wear them over my socks when it gets below 30 or so.

I have some old wet suits and hope to try making more of them.

On my hands my two part gore-tex ski glove were good down to near zero for the first few years, but now I have to put newspaper bags with a thumb hole over them to not freeze my fingers under 20.


helen-s
2011-09-19 17:25:21

Ski gloves worked for me: they're built to deal with more or less the same issues as with biking. That's gloves, not mitts...


Thin leather is good for in-between temperatures.


ahlir
2011-09-19 17:53:48

We wrote this Winter Survival Guide in Urban Velo #4, November 2007.


http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue4/urbanvelo4_p64-65.html


We also did this winter footwear options piece in Urban Velo #10, November 2008.


http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue10/urbanvelo10_p80-81.html


And we did this tech piece on winter tire considerations in Urban Velo #22, November 2010.


http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue22/p86-87.html


Not much has changed since any of these were written. Winter is still cold.


bradq
2011-09-19 18:34:38

But Brad, when you answer all our questions, we've no mysteries left to opine ad nauseum about ;) (and thank you for being a reliable font of wisdom)


ejwme
2011-09-19 19:49:47

I use glove liners & lobster claw gloves.


@Italian blend: if you are starting from scratch, be sure to slip on some glove liners or thinner gloves at the store before trying on heavier gloves. Even if you don't get the liners right away, at least you know you'll have enough room inside the glove.


Also, this is kind of gross, but it is super helpful if the back of the index finger has absorbent fabric for you to wipe your dripping schnoz on.


Last winter I put rain x on the outside of my glasses and cat crap anti-fog on the inside. That worked pretty good. Dr Bronners liquid soap worked as well as the cat crap as an anti-fogger, it just didn't last as long. Just smear a tiny dot of it on the inside of each lens, then buff lightly til you don't see streaks. Minty fresh!


pseudacris
2011-09-19 20:32:20

Thanks all, but seriously, you don't ride your bike in ice and snow do you?


italianblend
2011-09-20 00:12:56

Ice and snow are not for the faint of heart, but cold sure isn't a major deterrent. How about that swimsuit ride last winter?


stuinmccandless
2011-09-20 01:18:53

riding in the snow is awesome. riding in an ice storm is less awesome. riding on top of ice covered ground is tricky but doable. cold is (99% of the time) just a reflection of inappropriate gear (we do have some posters here with actual medical issues with the cold, which sucks, but you'd know if you had those, and they rock the winter regardless). it's like chopping wood in the winter - you're working too hard to be cold.


did I mention that riding in the snow is AWESOME?


ejwme
2011-09-20 13:47:41

I love winter riding.

Ice made me stop riding once, and snow did one time as well (it was snowmageddon).


I thought it was really funny when I tried to ride down an icy liberty ave, slid and fell, decided to walk on the [snow-covered] sidewalk the rest of the way (with my 2" wide tires). A block or so later, I saw a kid with skinny, tiny little road bike tires, completely dominating the ice. They didn't look like studded tires either.


rubberfactory
2011-09-20 19:50:03

If you have steep hills to go DOWN in the winter, isn't that dangerous?


italianblend
2011-09-20 20:23:08

I go down Stanton everyday and I use the same technique mountain bikers use, I slow down and pull myself further back on the saddle. A muddy hill is kind of the same as a snowy hill (I think) so if mountain bikers can ride mud I can ride snow and the studded tires work really well on ice.


marvelousm3
2011-09-20 21:15:30

Thanks all, but seriously, you don't ride your bike in ice and snow do you?


We wait until winter to see who the real cyclists are...





ieverhart
2011-09-21 00:59:56

^ +1


marvelousm3
2011-09-21 01:08:56

Back at Geneseo (near Buffalo and Rochester NY), I used the unicycle to cross campus all winter, all four years. I usually dropped the air pressure to about 18# to increase surface area in the snow. But like Pitt, Geneseo was on the side of a serious hill. Didn't matter; I climbed the hills anyway. Ice? No problem; I had better traction with the one tire than most people had with two feet...so long as I didn't have to stop or turn.


With that as background, winter? Sure, bring it.


stuinmccandless
2011-09-21 02:16:22

Italianblend - all machoness aside, do what you feel is safe. Just don't write off winter riding entirely until you've tried some, and as you get a better feel for your body, your bike, how to dress, and how to ride, you may find that you feel more and more conditions are safe for you. Nobody here (except maybe Stu or the polo guys) was born popping wheelies on black ice for giggles.


I prefer riding in 25 and under to riding in 30-40 degree weather - somehow it's easier for me to deal with mentally and physically when I KNOW anything H2O based is going to be solid and anything that looks slightly wet is ice. But I've only got two winters under my belt - my first winter I chickened out of anything that wasn't 100% dry pavement no matter the temperature. This winter I look forward to biking with the dog through drifts for fun :D


ejwme
2011-09-21 12:44:28

i LOVE winter riding. its the only time i really enjoy road riding as much as mountain biking.


cburch
2011-09-21 19:01:10

Winter riding is indeed loads o' fun. Like ejwme, I don't really dig on the mid-30s stuff...too sloppy and hypothermic for my tastes. But anything under 30, especially with a couple inches of fresh snow, is just a blast.


I find the greatest challenge tends to be not overheating, believe it or not. Several easily-adjusted thin layers, plus the technique of unzipping/de-layering BEFORE you feel warm, goes a long way towards maintaining winter comfort. If, like me, you find that you exude perspiration even in single digit temps, I recommend wool to keep you warm regardless of dampness.


reddan
2011-09-21 21:26:52

@reddan then what is the "greatest challenge"


dmtroyer
2011-09-21 21:34:38

Heh. The greatest challenge is "to not overheat." Guess the original statement was a bit ambiguous, eh?


reddan
2011-09-21 21:37:44

I find it much easier to warm up when I get somewhere than to cool down and stop sweating. Looking forward to winter riding.


kgavala
2011-09-21 22:32:43

I have a question, am I destroying my bike. Its almost a year old. I ride about 60-80 miles a week and I've had to replace my cables, my rear cassette, my rack and I recently ripped open both tires. And now my clip less pedals are making a clicking noise. Is this normal wear or am I just a bad rider. I know other people with a Trek Portland who have never had a problem.


marvelousm3
2011-09-29 22:22:35

@marvelous that does seem like an abnormally high amount of wear. some periodic maintenance should prevent some of these things... ie replacing the chain early enough to prevent cassette wear and tear. 3-4k miles seems pretty early to replace the cables as well.


dmtroyer
2011-09-29 22:30:05

also cleaning the bike from time to time... especially after riding through the acid baths of pittsburgh.


dmtroyer
2011-09-29 22:30:54

When I needed my cassette replaced they said my chain was in horrible shape.


marvelousm3
2011-09-30 16:41:37

i believe the dominant school of thought is you should either replace your chain inordinately often, or replace the chain and cassette together after they give up the ghost.


hiddenvariable
2011-09-30 17:22:19

The little gear in the back, probably 11 tooth, can wear out pretty fast if you spend alot of time in it. So don't ride in ...say the middle of your triple in the front with the small gears in the back.


boazo
2011-09-30 18:45:59

@ Boazo I think thats the gear I spend 90% of the time in.


marvelousm3
2011-09-30 18:52:04

If you still have the old cassette its fun and educational to look at the teeth of the gears with a magnifying glass and compare them to the new ones.


boazo
2011-09-30 19:38:24

I always fill my tires to the maximum psi recommended on the tire, is that too much or should I put in a little less. I'm wondering If that causes faster wear.


marvelousm3
2011-10-01 02:53:01

Im with Mr marv I spend almost all my time in the middle front gear and the two smallest back gears, dropping to the biggest front ring when im in the strip or on a bike trail.


dbacklover
2011-10-01 02:56:14

Hi Guys,


What kind of maintenance should I do on my chain? Is there some sort of oil I should get for it? I have never done this, and I noticed a slight squeaky sound on the chain yesterday and the gears had a little delay in changing. Thanks.


PS: Filling up my tires made a huge difference to climbing hills. I was amazed. It's like I can actually do hills now.


italianblend
2011-10-18 10:47:43

There's plenty of advice on the board already regarding chain care (and it can be a bit of religious topic among some cyclists.


Some folks like a "wet" lube (like Pedro's ChainJ), whilst others prefer "dry" lubes (like some White Lightning offerings), which go on wet but dry on the chain. Truthfully, it's personal preference.


I like dry lubes, even though you have to lube the chain more often. I am, however, currently using ChainJ, and it seems perfectly acceptable.


If you are using a wet lube, be sure to wipe down the chain after applying.


bjanaszek
2011-10-18 11:16:15

I have been testing a wet chain lube for a friend and it is pretty promising compared to all the others I have tried. Once I get an indoor trainer and a pile of miles with the top two lubes in testing I should have some 2oz samples for people to try.


orionz06
2011-10-18 11:45:05

I keep promising myself that I'll try the paraffin wax method one of these years.


Maybe the next time I replace the chain. If I remember.


reddan
2011-10-18 12:05:13

I tried it. For me at 150 miles a week it is not worth it. It gets noisy very quickly. Once I went back to an oil based lube in August things have been tons better in terms of noise. I need to wipe the chain a little more often but it appears to be a better overall lube on paper and in performance.


orionz06
2011-10-18 12:26:02

@reddan: You'll have to carry a camping stove with you during your next 1200 so you can relube the chain during rest stops.


bjanaszek
2011-10-18 13:40:10

@bjanaszek: I wonder if I could draw power from the dynamo hub to heat an electrical element in a wax reservoir, so I have a continuous slow trickle of paraffin running over the chain?


reddan
2011-10-18 13:45:24

FWIW: I've never had any luck with wax lubes. I stick with synthetic oil based ones.


bradq
2011-10-18 13:46:28

I wonder if I could draw power from the dynamo hub to heat an electrical element in a wax reservoir, so I have a continuous slow trickle of paraffin running over the chain?


There are crusty randos that would _totally_ pay for such a system.


bjanaszek
2011-10-18 14:01:23

A heated Scottoiler.


bradq
2011-10-18 14:22:24

There are crusty randos that would _totally_ pay for such a system.


If they weren't crusty before, they certainly would be after using such a system.


reddan
2011-10-18 14:49:33

Are slow gear shifts a symptom of a dry chain? It's not severe at all but in the higher gears it takes a second to kick in it seems.


italianblend
2011-10-18 20:37:25

could be. i normally notice it more with ghost shifts in lower gears, where the link doesn't engage properly because it's partially stuck, and it slips down to the next smaller sprocket for a moment.


hiddenvariable
2011-10-18 20:50:29

@italianblend it also could be that, because your bike is fairly new, your cables have stretched out a bit?


pseudacris
2011-10-19 01:43:01

fyi "cable stretch" is mostly housing compression. but yeah the tension probably needs to be adjusted on the cables. you can do this yourself pretty easily with the barrel adjusters on the shifters and/or derailuers, but this is also a good time to take it to a shop and have them give it a once over now that you have some miles on it. not sure if ll bean will do this, thats one of the perks of buying from an lbs instead...


cburch
2011-10-19 03:21:43

Earlier in this tread we discussed stickier tires, a month a go i got these http://trackosaurusrex.com/pblog/index.php?entry=entry100602-090945 I had a conversation with a bike messenger a while back and he swears by them. After a month theses are the stickies tires ever, my cornering wet or dry is faster, my downhill speed is faster by 2mph and wet/dry stopping is awesome. The bad side is the tires are heavy so climbing was a little slower and starting off at a light was sluggish till my legs adjusted. Price at Thick Bikes was around $40 a tire but you can get them on line for half that.

(edit) Don't expect to go anywhere with theses in the snow.


marvelousm3
2011-10-19 18:03:36

Also I was considering switching to the "slime" tubes. Any one know if they work and pros/cons of using them


marvelousm3
2011-10-21 13:03:30

I did not like the slime tubes, even off road because they felt heavy as hell.


orionz06
2011-10-21 13:10:02

Good luck patching a Slime tube. Just stick with good flat resistant tires.


bradq
2011-10-21 13:34:38

The problem with slime tubes is you need to let the tire sit a while with the stem on top to allow the slime to drain away. Otherwise if you let any air out if there is slime near the stem, it clogs it.


helen-s
2011-10-21 18:13:43

When I change gears on my bike, especially the lower gears, there is now a delay in the gear actually switching over. It is getting worse. What is this a symptom of? Is there anything I can do myself to fix it?


(I ordered some chain lube and it should be coming this week)


Is it cable stretching as mentioned above? I think llbean will give me a tuneup so I might take it in this weekend.


italianblend
2011-10-25 09:20:32

Sounds like cable stretching to me (???or housing compression???) which would mean you need to adjust your rear derailler (probably just need to tighten the cable a bit). There are a few good articles around the interwebs on the matter.


dmtroyer
2011-10-25 12:51:49

That's probably why I don't have full use of all my cogs, either. Thanks for the tip!


stuinmccandless
2011-10-25 13:41:27

Hi all,


My bike is a year old now and I've noticed on about 3 or 4 occasions, the nut that is holding the handlebars gets loose while I'm riding. I guess I tend to put a lot of weight on the bars. It's fixable with an Alan wrench, but I would like to know if I could get this replaced or secure it better somehow. Is this a common problem?


When it loosens, the handlebars will twist forward or backward (imagine the bar connecting the handlebars spinning).


italianblend
2012-05-19 15:10:40

You should take it to a reputable bike shop for a tune up and mention this. I'd recommend thick or iron city.


cburch
2012-05-19 15:54:31

cburch is right. i dunno where your bike came from, but it could be you just need to grease up the bolt and put it on properly, or it could be that your handlebar clamp is the wrong size. or something else. but it's a potentially dangerous problem that should be dealt with properly.


hiddenvariable
2012-05-19 16:36:56

The longer you let it go/the more times it turns, the less likely it will be that you can correct it simply by tightening, without replacing the stem or bars. Attend to it ASAP. Dangerous.


edmonds59
2012-05-19 18:40:36

I think I'll take it up to probikes in squirrel today before it closes.


italianblend
2012-05-20 18:32:56

I don't want to go too far in offering unsolicited criticism of Pro Bikes and end up sounding like a jerk, but I have reason to second cburch's shop suggestions... Iron City has had to fix what Pro Bikes has screwed up on my bike on more than one occasion. On the other hand, Pro Bikes does have more convenient weekend hours, so it's probably not the end of the world if you have to go there for that reason. And it's only some of their employees that I've had a problem with, while others are just fine, so YMMV. :)


2012-05-20 18:47:55

Isn't there another bike shop in squirrel?


Ps: I'm in swissvale so if there are any other nearby shops please advise. I'd rather not drive it as I have trouble fitting my bike into my car without altering stuff that I'd rather not mess with myself.


italianblend
2012-05-20 18:50:35

Biketek is basically right next door. Beyond that, I'm not sure what there is closer to Swissvale except that Performance Bike location in East Liberty, but if you're already okay with riding to Squirrel Hill, you could pretty much just coast down the hill into Oakland to go to Iron City. OTOH, they do close at 4 on Sundays, if I remember correctly.


I can certainly understand the convenience factor with Pro Bikes—it's why I tolerated my issues with them as long as I did. Since what you have now is a safety issue, it's probably better to get it fixed somewhere sooner, even if it's at Pro Bikes, than to keep riding with it any longer. Don't mind me, I'm just being snarky because Pro Bikes treats me like a big dumb girl :)


2012-05-20 19:00:20

No I appreciate the insight. I am not very handy at all so they could tell me I need a new muffler and I would ask how much. Des biketek have a shop?


italianblend
2012-05-20 19:04:08

Yeah, my last day as a patron of Pro Bikes was the day they tried to sell me a whole new set of brake levers (significantly more than $3 and five minutes of work) when all I needed was one new barrel adjuster (<$3, five minutes). They probably would have thrown in a muffler and a flux capacitor if I had let them. (Not all the employees are like that, but some are.)


Mmm... I have never actually been inside Biketek so I have no idea what it's like. I imagine any shop should be able to fix this kind of thing, though. Someone else probably knows better than me re: Biketek and re: this specific issue.


2012-05-20 19:11:47

Free Ride has Sunday drop in class hours 4:30 to 6:30. If it's not too crowded for the class they might let you work on it. Plus you'll learn how to fix it yourself!


http://freeridepgh.org/


marko82
2012-05-20 19:40:38

Good point, Marko! That reminds me that I keep meaning to take some of the classes that I haven't taken at Free Ride yet. It's super-liberating to be able to fix at least some things myself thanks to Free Ride.


2012-05-20 19:45:54

I rode up to biketek and had a pleasant experience. He adjusted the nut and tightened it and also replaced brake pads and tightened brakes at my request, all at the end of his shift. I gave him a $5 tip and thanked him for squeezing me in.


If the problem doesn't recur I might just go back to them from now on.


But thanks for that free bike stuff. This summer I will definately check it out.


italianblend
2012-05-20 20:21:50

Seconded on the free ride class suggestions, I took the whole series and they were great... and also for going to open shop for things like this - it was an easy fix as you saw but you do need a torque wrench which is kind of an expensive tool to buy yourself but FR has one.


I go to biketek a lot, they've generally done good work. I like thick but if I have to leave the bike at biketek it's a 15 min walk home instead of having to take a bus from the s.side (and then transfer or walk 15 min anyways)... there is a lot to be said for convenience.


salty
2012-05-20 22:11:31

Btw I had a extremely bad experience at Bike tech in Squirrelhill, so bad I will never step inside of that place again


marvelousm3
2012-05-20 22:37:38

@pearmask - sad to hear that kind of thing still going on. My calender says it's 2012, did I miss something? Otoh I could give them the benefit of the doubt and assume they treat the general public of either sex as suckers...


edmonds59
2012-05-20 23:21:53

It may not be fair for me to call it sexism. Someone at Iron City said something to the effect of "they do that to everyone," so maybe it's more about some employees there showing a preference for a certain crowd of people (of whatever gender) who do not ride little aluminum hybrids with lights held together with duct tape, combined with a little too much eagerness to make money off of people who they don't think know anything about bikes (something they might be assuming with me because I'm female, or because I don't ride a fancy bike, or some other reason). There was that one issue of genuine trying-to-rip-me-off and some other times where I just felt sort of patronized, as well as some times when I could just tell certain people there had no idea how to talk to someone who wasn't interested in racing or bragging about how many miles I rode weekly. There have also been issues when certain people there have set things up for me and worked on my bike that suggest a general equal-opportunity ineptitude. So yeah, the TL;DR is that I think it's not always sexism but is just that certain employees there are a little clueless and/or assume that people other than their fancy racing buddies are suckers.


On the other hand, Alan (Allen? IDK) there sold me my bike when I was first starting this whole thing and has always been extremely nice and helpful. It's just a shame my other experiences there have not been consistent with that first experience.


2012-05-21 01:05:08

I just despise snobbery in any of life's venues, and biking, the most proletarian of enterprises, unfortunately has it's share.

Alan, if it was the owner Alan (or one of, or used to be, or something)is secure enough that he doesn't need to put on that contrivance.


edmonds59
2012-05-21 02:14:38

Not sure how he spells it, but Allen is a super nice guy. Bought my bike off Craigslist, apparently off a good friend of this, he fit me up, and got me rolling. Thought it was a solid shop. Went back a few times and was treated like crap. Bike tek for patrts (close to home bikepgh discount) thick for service (good service, lots of trust, Chris is always there). Trust is huge!!!! My 2 cents. Great to have so many bike shops to chose from!!! If you go to pro bikes try to talk to allen


b-s
2012-05-21 04:23:37

Yeah, if all the employees were up to par there, it could be a great place. Alan and a couple of others there are good guys.


The fact that Bob's awesome dog Maxis is usually at Iron City when I go in may or may not cause me to be biased. The most important thing when choosing a bike shop is obviously PUPPIES.


2012-05-21 04:30:31

Pro Bikes has treated me well, as have other shops. I do know that when I said I could spend upwards of $XXXX on a road bike I walked out only spending 1/4 of it because of the salesmen understanding my needs and selling to them and not my budget. I also asked about some high dollar wheels later on and was told I did not *need* them and was told why. I have also heard him, and others, treat hipster types and women quite well.


I have been treated like crap in one of the other stores mentioned to have exceptional service. Perhaps it was because of my Pro Bikes socks? Who knows. I know I interrupted a conversation (by simply approaching the counter) to spend money on items carrying one shops brand name and the inconvenience to them was all but mentioned.


I strongly second (or third) the Free Ride. Learning to fix things on your own is the best way to go. Gain knowledge and pass it on when you can.


orionz06
2012-05-21 11:37:11

Not a gear question, but a noob question.


Today I was in Bloomfield following two slow-ish bikers (no offense to them). I didn't know what the protocol was to pass them. I stayed behind them for 2 lights Traffic was pretty busy - this was around 10:30ish. At the third light, I pulled up beside them and asked them "do you guys mind if I pass you up?" They said something like "no, please do."


Was this decent bike etiquette?


Sort of a gear question - I use apple ear buds when I bike and sometimes the wind is so loud that I can't hear what I'm listening to. Are there any biker-friendly earphone attachments that will block out the wind?


italianblend
2012-05-26 17:01:48

I usually say "on your left" and then pass, leaving as much room as possible.


But please say *something*, I almost collided with a stealth passer the other day. I signaled a right turn and since I was at speed I started by counter-steering left a bit, which is when I discovered the guy was *way* too close on my left. In retrospect I should have checked my left but I was taking the lane and didn't expect anyone to be there - certainly not that close. The 4 foot rule should apply to cyclists as well. I yelled something like "hey, how about an 'on your left'"... no reaction though :(


I'm not a fan of using ear buds at all, but that's a whole other religious war.


salty
2012-05-26 18:05:33

@Italianblend- well played. Bike or not, we're all still just human, so simple common courtesy is always appropriate. (Of course, douche nozzles will be douche nozzles regardless, but then, what can you do...)


atleastmykidsloveme
2012-05-26 18:24:57

I didn't know if they were gunna take that as "look at this guy with his ll bean bike, he thinks he is so cool that he should pass us"


They really weren't going fast at all and I was on an agenda to get myself to the strip


italianblend
2012-05-26 19:33:12

Two dings on your bicycle bell is perfect for alerting pedestrians or other cyclists that you're hoping to pass. (I'm afraid that one ding is easy to misinterpret as "I mistakenly hit my bell.")


ieverhart
2012-05-26 21:57:54

I think you did everything correctly. Often after a 12hr shift I am ridding slowly and a faster cyclist will call out they are passing. I like knowing someone is passing and I'm not ever offended.

As far as ear buds to wear while cycling you are probably not going to get many suggestions here because most feel riding with ear buds is dangerous. Hearing traffic and peds is an important part of cycling.


marvelousm3
2012-05-26 23:17:40

@Italianblend


I on the otherhand, enjoy listening to podcasts/music in my right side ear. It's a hotly contested subject, but it's never gotten me in trouble in the thousands of miles I've ridden


I'd recommend the kind that go in the ear canal. Keep the other ear open for traffic/ped/other cyclist noise


I thought this thread was all about gear ratios :P


sgtjonson
2012-05-26 23:39:08

Hah, this thread has been about pretty much everything at various different times. Except I'm actually not sure gear ratios have come up — but I think my bike shopping thread the other day pretty much took care of that subject.


I won't get involved in the earbud question, and I guess opinions on passing etiquette vary, but I would say the way you passed those people seems totally fine and polite to me. I just don't like when people pass me really close without warning, nor do I like it when people pass me on the right without warning in an intersection because they are running a light or stop sign (especially if they are slow riders who I then have to re-pass). From my perspective, as long as you give me a fair amount of space and/or warning, we're cool.


2012-05-27 00:53:23

So...I thought I would ask 2 questions:


1) When you lock your bike somewhere, do you take your helmet with you, or leave it on your bike? I've seen people in places like the strip just leave their helmets with their bikes... I was actually thinking of threading the straps through the lock, but it would easy to just cut it and steal it.


2) Does anyone ride with a mirror on their handlebar? Can you recommend a cheap one, or can you talk me out of it? I don't feel like I need it most of the time, but would like to have it when going down hills not knowing if there's a car behind me, like commercial Ave, etc.


italianblend
2012-07-25 10:01:49

I almost always take my helmet with me. I fear rain, at the least, theft second, and vandalism third. A fourth that should get some mention is dogs. Male dogs.


stuinmccandless
2012-07-25 11:27:26

Always take helmet with me.


orionz06
2012-07-25 12:13:38

I take my helmet with me, and I use a mirror on my commuter bike.


Here's the one I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Mirrycle-MTB-Mountain-Bicycle-Mirror/dp/B0009R96YK/


I like it because it is constantly adjustable, which I need because I tend to ding it off of things.


I use it frequently enough that I've found myself checking for it when I walk :) I also miss it when I am on my road bike - for me it's just peace of mind to see as well as hear cars coming up on me.


pinky
2012-07-25 12:27:56

I always take my helmet.


I have mixed feeling about mirrors. When I drive a car I look in my mirrors constantly. I want to know where the other cars are so I can change lanes to pass etc. However, on a bike in the city I think it is more important to pay attention to what’s in front of you than behind you. This is especially true at intersections and roads with parking. But out on more rural roads I think they can be useful since it can allow you to use more of the lane then move toward the shoulder when you see a car in your mirror (of course ears work for this too).


In your example of going down Commercial, I don’t care if there is a car behind me or not – I’m going to ride in the middle of the lane at a pace that I feel comfortable with.


marko82
2012-07-25 12:45:32

I take my helmet with my. At one time I used a mirror but once I learned to always take the lane I stopped using it there was no need.


marvelousm3
2012-07-25 12:48:16

Marko, I think your point about mirrors is a good one. Half of my commute is on a more suburban 2-lane twisty road - that's where I use my mirror. Once I get towards the city I almost never use it.


pinky
2012-07-25 12:59:41

I've got to disagree with Marko about the mirror. I don't think that keeping your eyes on the road is any more/less important for a bike than for a car, and being able to see what's coming up behind you is really valuable on a bike, especially when a car/truck/bus is about to pass you too close. Also, turning your head to look back tends to result in veering from your normal straight path, which can be dangerous.

I've got a simple round mirror (not sure of the brand, but I think I got it at Trek) on the drop bars of my commuter and like it a lot.


Also, I generally bring the helmet with me.


willb
2012-07-25 13:18:47

1: I used to thread my helmet straps through u-lock, in a way that would render the helmet useless if the straps were cut. But since I never feel like taking the lights off my helmet anymore, I just take my helmet with me.


2: I've used a handlebar mirror for about 2 years now, and I'll never look back. For me, It's a quick way to see what's behind me while still being able to see a good bit of what's in front of me. It makes me feel safe, and it's easier to be aware of what's behind me at all times. So that I know there's a car approaching behind me on spring way, and drivers on that road tend to be impatient, so I can anticipate the need to pull over when it's safe to and let them pass with minimal conflict.


Thick has cheap mirrors, they're somewhere between $10-15, and super easy to install, but also pretty easy to break. My main problem is that when my mirrors break, I get super jumpy and paranoid in the time it takes me to replace it (meaning: always have a backup at home. I've broken two of them in the past 2 years, so it's not all that bad, but it's better to be prepared.)


rubberfactory
2012-07-25 14:43:43

I leave the helmet, and have never had a problem with theft, even though I just clip the strap around the top tube. Helmets are simply not an item most thieves want.

I had a mirror mounted on my shifter (the Mirrycle, made to fit on Shimano shifters) and liked it. But eventually it broke off and now I'd have to glue it in place to fix. So I'm trying to get used to a helmet-mounted mirror. I kind of like it but the adjustment is too touchy.

I find a mirror to be essential in city traffic -- there is too much road noise to rely on ears.


jonawebb
2012-07-25 14:50:02

I guess it comes down to personal preference some love the mirror some don't. I am very comfortable without the mirror but that doesn't mean it wont work for you. I had a mirror about a year and I hardly used it. I don't think there is a correct answer to this question, it's what works for you.


marvelousm3
2012-07-25 14:54:38

I put a mirror on my hybrid right after I bought it, so I was worried about riding without one on my new bike, but it hasn't been a big deal. I will admit there are some places that are easier to negotiate with it, though: narrow bike lanes where it's nice to see what's coming without turning around every two seconds, situations where I have to merge left into fast-ish traffic and want to be able to see further behind me without having to crane my neck so far, situations where I'm moving fast enough or there's enough going on in front of me that I don't want to spend too long with my eyes pointed backwards, etc.


It probably made a big difference in my comfort level early on, when I was not so great at dealing with traffic and also not particularly good at turning my head without my bike following it.


Side note: Like RF said, mirrors break sometimes. For that reason, I like Mirrcycle: they sell all the bits and pieces of their mirrors as spare parts so that if you break or lose some bit of it you can spend <$5 on the part you need instead of $15 or whatever a whole new mirror w/ attachment arm costs.


2012-07-25 16:33:43

FYI, I need to clarify. My helmet is a Rudy Project helmet with a Lupine Piko 3 mounted. I carry it in more because of the light than the helmet but I would still take a less costly helmet inside anyway. Never know what someone might do to the helmet.


orionz06
2012-07-25 16:36:09

I usually put cable through straps and lock it unless I want to make the point that I am a helmeted geeky cyclist.


I have a bar end mirror which I maybe use every few days.


helen-s
2012-07-25 17:24:43

i have a ~$30 giro helmet, and i always leave it on my bike, unless the weather is crappy. even then, i don't care in the summer, because sometimes a wet helmet is nice when it's hot, and sometimes it's already wet anyway from sweat.


i've never ridden with a mirror before. i never really felt the need for it. if i had one now, i would probably never think to look at it, because i've been riding for so long without one.


on that note, i wonder if turning your head might allow you to remove your focus from in front of you for less time than a mirror would. the thought i'm having is if you use a mirror, first your eyes have to find the mirror, then find whatever is in the mirror. whereas turning your head and moving your eyes fast is something we've evolved to do well. i wonder if there are any studies out there.


hiddenvariable
2012-07-25 18:30:57

Think about it this way, when I am driving I can use all 3 mirrors with only moving my eyes. I never look rearward unless that is the direction of travel or I am changing lanes and want my final confirmation. Should be no different on a bike. I think it matters more on a fitted road bike than it would an upright bike. My road bike would require me to move my head to see a mirror on the bars, my mountain bike would not.


orionz06
2012-07-25 18:37:02

On my newer bike (with drop bars, and the mirror installed on the end of them), I move my head probably less than 2 inches to check my mirror.


rubberfactory
2012-07-25 18:42:01

2: I've used a handlebar mirror for about 2 years now, and I'll never look back.


lol'd.


rice-rocket
2012-07-25 18:48:01

Like orionz06 said, it's just like in car. You don't need to search for the mirror, or find things in the mirror, you just look at it and you can see what's behind you. With my set up on my drop bar commuter, I do not have to move my head at all to see in the mirror; it's just a half-second eye movement.


I don't think mirrors are essential, and plenty of people seem to do okay without them, but there is no way that a mirror is less safe than no mirror.


willb
2012-07-25 19:05:51

I use my mirror so much I can pick up the line the overtaking cars are following. Its on the bar end of my drop bar on my roadbike. It takes some practice to use it. Don't expect to like it right away if you haven't used one before. I always think if you're not using a mirror all you can do is hope that -- the guy coming up behind you doesn't run you over, wheras I can actually see what he's doing in the mirror.


boazo
2012-07-25 19:22:09

I agree that it's all preference. I'm sure that there's plenty of people who feel safer or more comfortable just turning their heads.

For me personally, though, I couldn't do without.


rubberfactory
2012-07-25 19:30:20

I find that when I turn my head I have a tendency to drift in that direction, particularly if I twist all the way around so I can see what's directly behind me. A mirror lets me avoid that possibly dangerous tendency.


jonawebb
2012-07-25 19:34:05

I usually take my helmet with me unless it's a museum or something, I think I have unexamined and unfounded fears of someone teabagging it. Or something.

I've actually been meaning to start a mirror thread, this is opportune. I've ridden for eons without a mirror, but recently started using a little Zefal "Spin" handlebar end mirror, and I like it a lot. It's tiny but provides enough view that you can identify oncoming vehicles. It folds easily out of the way when going on a bus rack, and it holds adjustment well. I recommend it.

I've tried using eyeglass and helmet mirrors and I find that using them does actually distract from paying attention to the front, you have to move your head just so to get the rear view you want.


edmonds59
2012-07-25 19:36:43

If I'm carrying a pannier anyways I'll usually just attach my helmet to it. Otherwise I just leave the helmet attached to my bike.


When I was younger I wore contacts and now I usually wear glasses. I found I had a much harder time looking behind me with glasses due to them not covering peripheral vision as well, so I bought a helmet mounted mirror. I rode with it for a couple years but when I got a new helmet I didn't move it over, and to be honest I don't really miss it. It does block a possibly important part of your forward vision and it can be distracting. I can hear the cars anyways. But who knows, some day I may decide I want to use it again.


I don't really have a way to mount a mirror on my bike (barcons), maybe I'd like that better.


salty
2012-07-26 01:26:46

I used to be a big fan of the bar end mirrors, but I kept running them into things and the hardware wasn't stainless and eventually rusted


Now I just do the head turn


sgtjonson
2012-07-26 01:36:52

Thanks - more crazy questions!


Do you have a smartphone that you mount to your bike as a cycle computer? How do you mount it? I have an iPhone and instead of getting a bike computer I figured I'd just mount it somewhere. I track my rides with mapmyride so I can access what I need later. But I don't get heart rate, etc.


italianblend
2012-07-26 12:35:00

I just put my phone in my bike jersey pocket or bag, but then I don't know how fast I'm going. If you go this route, I recommend putting it in a sandwich bag or something. Lots of sweat this summer.


pinky
2012-07-26 13:44:20

I adore the Lifeproof case and mount. They are not cheap, but they are soooo worth it for me considering that I'm pretty sure I would have had to replace my phone about five times in the past year without that case. (I can't have nice things.)


2012-07-26 13:45:12

I usually leave my helmet on the top tube when I lock it. I'm not worried about it getting stolen, it's a bit high for getting peed on (except maybe by an especially exuberant mastiff), and I guess I'm not imaginative enough for the other vandal options...


No mirror. Have tried the cheap ones from Target once or twice & haven't like 'em; haven't had the cash to try a more expensive one. Have largely gotten the hang of bending down enough to look under my armpit instead of twisting around to check traffic. (It helps that my 'bars are low enough i'm pretty bent over as it is.)


I don't have a mount for my phone, it just goes in my pocket, or in my bag if I'm wearing shorts baggy enough to worry about it falling out. (I don't have cycling shorts, but often wear running shorts for riding...)


epanastrophe
2012-07-26 18:55:52

I should mention that I DO sometimes twist around and look, but mostly to make eye contact with a driver to show that I know they're there, but that I need to turn/change lanes/etc


rubberfactory
2012-07-26 19:18:25

Salty, I hate hate hate riding in glasses for the same reason. I had trouble with my contacts this year and I felt less safe wearing my glasses. It is better now though. I considered LASIK so I don't have to bother with either (hopefully).


Edmonds, I fear that someone is going to shit in my helmet or pour beer in it or something if I lock it to my bike.


stefb
2012-07-26 22:05:09

I have the same fear about my helmet. It's also why when I used to go to the laundromat, I watched my clothes like a hawk. I heard too many stories of people peeing in washing machines.


pinky
2012-07-27 12:38:45

I heard too many stories of people peeing in washing machines.


Err, what? Really?


reddan
2012-07-27 13:11:26

Yeah, people here worry about some really weird things.


jonawebb
2012-07-27 13:28:20

Not weird if you know someone who left, came back to get their clothes, and got an armful of peed-upon clothes instead.


pinky
2012-07-27 13:34:22

In old days urine was one of the chemicals used for cloth whitening -- people did not know about clorox then. :)


2012-07-27 13:58:34

I know of someone who had their cloths stolen at the laundromat, and I know someone who pored bleach in the dryer of an ex at the laundromat.


marvelousm3
2012-07-27 14:01:19

I'm surprised and a little disappointed that the pee thing never occurred to me even back in college.


edmonds59
2012-07-27 14:04:00

@edmonds, washers were different when you & I were in college too




marko82
2012-07-27 14:19:41

Ha!


edmonds59
2012-07-27 14:23:27

I always bring my helmet with me. Not so much because I care if my $10 skate helmet gets stolen, but precisely because I want to make the point that I did indeed ride a bike to my destination. It's a great way to make the point to lots of people without having to talk to anyone.


cburch
2012-07-27 14:32:29

Seriously off topic here... also I'd like to stop thinking about people peeing in my helmet or washing machine. Could we talk about gears or brakes or even mirrors instead?


jonawebb
2012-07-27 14:51:48

what about people peeing on your gears or brakes? or even mirrors?


cburch
2012-07-27 15:01:58

I did mention male dogs at one point. I thought that was on topic.


stuinmccandless
2012-07-27 15:45:12

Ya know, I've heard it recommended that one pee on a frozen hub to free it up, if it's freewheeling in both directions due to frozen pawls.


See? Pee, gears, and a useful pro tip...what more can one ask for?


[Edited to add:] By "frozen", I mean "because it's cold", not "locked up and immobile due to rust".


reddan
2012-07-27 16:21:16

Pee helps your bike operate better? I need to throw my Portland into a outhouse then.


marvelousm3
2012-07-27 16:44:14

Need some help - my chain got stuck in the gears near my pedals. I've tried to coax it back gently by pulling the rear derailleur to loosen it but it hasn't worked.




I really hope to get this fixed so I can do the memorial ride. Any suggestions?


italianblend
2012-07-28 13:32:59

Make sure the front derailleur is all the way to the inside, then try pulling the chain from the ‘underside’ of the bottom bracket forward, since it will have the least amount of tension there.


marko82
2012-07-28 13:50:21

Just pedal the bike. Should come right out.


mayhew
2012-07-28 13:51:11

Thanks - Yeah I fooled with it again and it came out. False alarm I guess - but this happened to me the other day too, which makes me think I need to clean the chain. I have some lube but not the cleaner. Can I simply wipe the chain down, or do I need some sort of degreaser?


italianblend
2012-07-28 13:57:09

Has nothing to do with the cleanliness of the chain. I'm guessing you backpedaled a bit given the chain is still correctly routed thru the front der and still on the upper teeth of the chainring.


That said, yes, you can just wipe it with a rag. But that really only cosmetically cleans the chain, which is better than nothing. To really clean it you need to soak it some how.


This tool is pretty cheap and TOTALLY worth it. Not sure why I didn't own one before now.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-cleaning-cm-5

Buy a gallon of Simple Green and dilute as necessary.


mayhew
2012-07-28 14:06:16