BIKEPGH MESSAGE BOARD ARCHIVE

I think its the law of diminishing returns. Yes you can rescue it, but is it worth the 10 bux a new chain would cost.

I have used my chain tool to expand a link just a bit to free frozen links before. I have also just used two pairs of pliers, lots of chain lube and patience and worked them back and forth until the moved freely.

You said you oiled it, you might try starting with something lighter, like soaking it down with wd40, or soak it overnight in kerosene, something that will really get inside the links. Then hit it with a strong de-greaser, I like those orange based products, then oil it. I've recovered some pretty bad chains that way, but then, if you don't already have those items, you've just spent $10 dollars on cleaning products instead of a new chain.

If, when you clean the chain, you can see rust pitting on the links, I figure the links have lost some degree of strength already and could break, that's when I just can it.

You do know about the trick of using the 'front slot' (the one nearest the breaker) in a chain tool to loosen a stiff link, right? I didn't until a month ago; it makes me weep to think of all the hours I've wasted bending chains with my hands when that would've fixed it instantly.

Try using a chain tool. If that doesn't work, I'd happily give you a lightly used chain.

I've had luck with pb blaster for stuck links, as well as a combination of wd 40 and heat. Probably better off using a chain tool though, which is news to me, haha.

I think its the law of diminishing returns

I agree with this. Stu you say you have "many frozen links" even after working on it for an hour? You can probably spread the links out with a chain tool and free most of them but when it's this bad why not just start with a new chain? That way all the links will work the same.

After two more minutes on the chain Sunday morning, I took netviln's advice, and paid a visit to Thick. (*big shout out to cburch!*) I bought a chain tool and a chain, so I'm covered either way.

I had been using bare hands, a couple of nails as levers, and strategically aimed drops of plain old 10W40. I got it so the chain moved at all, but I could barely maintain speed on a level surface.

Note to self (and others): Winter road salt is hell on chains, especially if you don't hose them off after every ride, and oil them really really often. I was storing this bike indoors, but wasn't so good about the hosing. It irritates me that this chain is only a year old.

After every wet/snowy ride I just quickly lube my chain and wipe it free of excess water and lube.

A stainless steel chain, rather than a regular black steel chain, might hold up better, but I have no actual basis in fact to back that up. They cost more, but if they last more than one year...

Thick had three different chains, and I went with the middle one in terms of price, with the top one a bit under twice the cost of the middle one. I didn't look to see if that one was stainless or not. I was shopping more out of thumb pain, wallet thin-ness and desperation than serious research.

As to the old one, since I think it isn't beyond hope, I might just give it a good week-long solvent soak and then try the chain tool. I have a lesser bike that needs a chain, too, and this might do.

I look at chain maintenance like changing the oil in your car. Sure it may cost $50 to do every 5000 miles but the cost in repairs for a seized engine are far greater.

Your chain is the heart of the drive train. If it is not working properly, your chainring and cassette (cog) will soon ruin. This can have affects on bottom brackets and rear hubs. Pretty soon you are buying a new drive train and rear hub for 300 bucks instead of a 10 dollar chain.

So lube it up often, and after a particularly nasty winter, just get a new one if links are stiff beyond fixing.

I don't think that even stainless steel can withstand road salt.

Proper lubrication is the best prevention. Make sure its a good high quality lube, or at least use 3 in 1. Never user wd-40 or light spray lubes as your main lubricant. They are good for free frozen links and for cleaning you chain, but are to light weight to provide effective lubrication for very long.

Stu, if you need another chain let me know. I have a bunch of low-use take-offs from some barely used bikes I bought and converted to SS/fixed bikes last year

Thanks, ndromb, I may take you up on that. The #4 and #5 bikes in the fleet have ancient, rusty chains, and who-knows-how much (ab)use before that. I'll PM you with specifics.

I use WD40 on my mountain bike chain, but then I wash it axle to axle after every ride, and re-lube everything after, and hit everything with the WD again right before the next ride. That way I never get that crunky, grit-holding grease running through my drivetrain. Probably not practical for a commuter.

Road bikes, Pedro's.

I use Tri-Flow in the winter, and Finish Line Wax Lube in the summer. I like the wax lube because how clean it is, but if there is much moisture, you need to keep up on lubrication.

I use ProGold Prolink. They sell a little needle point lube pen and I've gotten in the habit of lubing my road bike chain after every ride. Keeps it clean and lasting longer. I just apply a drop to each roller, let it dry a bit, and run the chain through a rag to get the excess off.

The chain on the commuter gets less attention but I try to wipe it down and lube it fairly often.

personally i like pedros syn lube fall to spring and ice wax in the summer. the syn lube is thick to stay on the chain and has detergents in it that help break down the nasty crap in the wet and salty, but it does pick up dirt more in dry conditions because of the thickness.

on my mountain bikes i always use syn lube, those things get naaaaaaaaaaasty.

glad to see it all worked out for you stu. a chain tool is one of those things that you just cant figure out how you lived without once you finally break down and buy one.