That order I had with the $20 mountain drops fell through. Pro-tip: Don't buy actionvillage through amazon. Apparently they have this problem a lot - I received a bmx seatpost instead, and they don't even carry WTB components.
So I'm back to where I started, hoping to have some sort of solution by the MS150, thinking about doing a full drop conversion.
Right now I've got Shimano triggers and tektro levers on V brakes - my question is, what is the cheapest drop conversion I can do? I'm not looking for race efficiency or super high end anything, just the cheapest thing I can get that I won't be replacing in a month.
I've got Shimano bar-end shifters and Tektro RL520 road V-brake levers on my commuter's drop bars...work great in my (admittedly limited) experience.
The Tektros are pretty cheap...$30 or less new. The bar-end shifters are a little more pricey, but you can find 'em in the $60-$70 range without trying too hard, especially if you're talking 8-speed.
Yeah...
You can find an old 7 or 8 bar end, flip the switch
and make it friction, allowing you to use it up to
10 speed or whatever.
Are you looking for bars? Check out the salsa "woodchipper bars" you can find them online for like 30 bucks.
If you want to buy salsa moto ace bars I have some that I could really get rid of if you want 44cm (wide) bars.
9 speed unfortunately.
Edit: Posted the same time as steevo. So I can use the 520s with what I've got.
Whats the learning curve on bar-ends like?
Since it looks like I'd be spending around $100 anyway - Could I use these or would I have pull problems with my brakes? (shimano 105 sti brifters)
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/1737405106.html
Dunno if you're just looking for more hand positions for the MS150 but if that's what you're going for have you considered conventional bar ends?
Or a trekking bar? They usually fit mountain components and have lots of positions, and are cheap to try out:
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_128_129_478&products_id=9289&zenid=f9aba6fd60b3fb8650bd5f9ab91fd2fb
Bar ends are trivial to get used to. Just flick them up and down.
A moneysaving option for barcons is mounting some friction downtube shifters from FreeRide on some of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-BarCon-Shifter-Mount-Shimano/dp/B002SR3IF2
I have a bike with 8 speed and friction barcons and it works fine.
105 brifters would give you pull problems on V-brakes but would probably work on mechanical discs.
Bar ends are great. Light, simple, durable. I started using 'em in indexed mode, eventually swapped to friction when I didn't feel like screwing with cable adjustment, and have been friction ever since.
If you went with the brifters and V-brakes, I think you'd want a Travel Agent to deal with cable pull differences.
There really isn't a learning curve for bar-ends, unless you're going to road race with them.
I haven't been on the list recently, but you may to subscribe to the iBOB and post a "want to buy" message for bar ends. I've picked up several nice sets of friction bar ends cheap that way (old skool SunTour Power Ratchets are the cat's pajamas).
i just converted my bike away from 22.2 drops... i would give them to a good home to try out indefinitely. they are used and a bit heavy, if you're a weight watcher do not apply... but i rode with them for 3+ years, including 2 MS 150s, so you can too!
i also have some mustache type bars that are not 22.2 which is the real deal for the MS 150... i'm a mustache bar apologist though.
oh i also have these in 22.2... but those would have to be a quick loan because they're on a bike project that is evolving:
This 54cm aluminum Albatross Bar is a fantastic bar: great looking, extra comfortable, good for all kinds of riding on and off road, and is the only bar of its type (a lightweight, swept-back, old-fashioned type) that accepts bar-end shifters. It's perfect for converting mountain bikes to comfortable all-around bikes. Lots of our Atlantis bikes go out with these bars. I/Grant have one like that, and I ride it everywhere, in all conditions.
If you ride a bike and have more than two or three of them, you ought to have this bar. It is the only bar in the world with this luscious look, this super quality, and that'll fit mountain bikey brake levers and bar-end shifters. You could just as easily set it up with mountain bike shifters, but it was designed specifically to work with bar-end shifters, and doing it that way frees up more room in front of the brake lever, for a good off-the-saddle climbing grip. I/Grant like riding this bar now, and ride it a lot (average 60 miles per week year round on it); and I just know it's the bar I'll ride full-time when I'm rickety, too.
I just figured out what you guys meant by "bar-ends". I couldn't figure out why there would be a learning curve for these.
I'd never heard barcons called bar-ends before.
+1 on the moustache type bar, install "upside down", so it's a real mild drop. Probably even work with the shifters and levers you have.
Go to Kraynicks and dig through the bar cans, he has loads.
+100 for the Albatross bar. I'm looking for another pair right now.
BTW, if barcons/bar-ends are not a requirement, the Dove bars are virtually the same.
Clarification - Kraynicks - not loads of moustache bars, but bars of all kinds.
Regarding V-Brakes with sti's or direct pull levers.
There is a separate amount of pull that v brake specific levers pull versus what a sti or cantilever or caliper brake pulls, that is why v brakes are so strong. You pull a lot of cable for
very little movement in the pads (look how close
they are vs. a set of road pads)
Some people say it is not a big deal to just run
regular levers (sti's) with v brakes, however it is officially advised against.
Fixes are the diacompe 287-v or whatever, or trying to find a problem solvers "rollamajig" which does something crazy and makes sti's pull the amount of v brake levers.
I saw that ad for those 9 speed levers and laughed, that is a rip off.
Those Dia Compe levers are getting hard to find, and they are pretty crappy for the money. Tekro has some V-brake compatible road levers now, the RL520. I don't care for the lever shape, but the quality seems much better than the 287.
What problem(s) are you trying to solve with the drop conversion? It may create a whole new set of issues.
If you are looking for more hand positions and less hand pain, you might want to try Ergon grips. they sell some modles with built in bare-ends, and the increased surface area of the grips helps a ton with hand pain and numbness.
If I had to ride a bike with flat bars long distances on the road, I would buy these: http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gx3-leichtbau.
Another really good option are the J-bar or H-bar by Titec. Multiple positions, take flat bar controls, and are really comfortable.
Perhaps I'm missing something here but why on earth wouldn't you just swap out the mtb bar for some dime-a-dozen drop bar? Just leave the same setup and switch it right over?
I just did the same thing in reverse putting a mountain bar on a roadbike
Drop bar 23.8 diameter
Mtb bar 22.2 diameter
Sure things can be cludged together, one way or the other, but I save my cludging for the banjo and car repairs.
I did a similar thing, took parts from my hybrid and moved them to a road frame. Had to replace the v brakes with center pulls.
Yeah, the new Tektro v-brake compatible levers are pretty decent. I put some on my Monocog before I sold it. That said, that bike was set up with flared drops positioned to use the hooks all the time, so I didn't get a feel for the hoods.
The Titec bars are very sweet.
Short term goal: More hand positions for the MS150
Long term goal: More flexibility for everything I do with my bike.
I have a Trek hybrid pretty good components all around, fancy isozone monostay, semi-carbon front fork, bells and whistles n'at. Its my "do everything without breaking" bike that I use for things like the MS150, long distance rides and training.
I was thinking drops for the combination of a more prone position for training, with the additional hand positions for long rides.
I stopped by Kraynicks today to look for some H-bars to feel out, no luck there, but I did find some albatross bars, which dont feel too appealing, some touring bars, which I probably like the most, and of course, loads of drops that don't fit my clamp size.
Whats the difference between albatross bars and moustache bars? I feel like I'd be more likely to have an upright riding position with them.
the thing with albatros bars is you turn them upside down the they curve down.. basically they become a mustache bar.
take my 22.2 drops for a bit, it will make up for how light your carbon fork is and you can just pretend you have a steel bike
Moustache bars have significantly more forward reach than Albatross/North Road style bars. A-bars are perfect for cockpits that are a bit too long. M-bars will only make the cockpit feel longer.
Via the Riv site:
M-bar
A-bar (well, technically a Dove bar)
hmmm... with that in mind i may have some switching to do.
